I am still planning to install a kill switch on my ’98 Ranger.
Here’s my plan.
Please tell me if it is a good plan, or needs “re-engineered”.

Fuse holder (Rated 30A)
SPST contacts / Switch (Radio Shack 275-730)(Rated 25A at 12 VDC)
Auto Relay (Radio Shack 275-226)(SPST contacts)(Rated 30A at 12VDC)(Can’t get a good answer from Radio Shack people whether this relay is continuous duty, or not)

Find a source (made hot with the ignition on)(I haven’t decided where to tap the source)(Maybe you can advise)
Attach one end of fuse holder (with 20 A fuse) to the source (using 14-16 gauge wire)(solder or stake on)
And the other end to one side of the switch (275-730)(using 14-16 gauge wire)(stake on)
From the other side of the switch (using 14-16 gauge wire)(and stake ons) to the terminal # 86 on the relay
Take terminal #85 to ground (using 14 gauge wire) (using good technic to attach ground on both ends)

Cut the pink & black wire going to the fuel pump (from the inertia switch)
Twist & solder NEW wires (using 14-16 gauge wire) to the ends of the wires just cut
Attach these wires to terminals #87, and #30/51

Feel free to tell me the pits fall........PLEASE

Thanx a lot, Gene

 

I am not sure what you are trying to do. If the relay is connected to the switch "on power", when someone pulls the lock and turns the switch to on it will turn on the fuel pump, which it does anyway....would it not be better to just put a hidden switch in line with the power lead to open the pump circuit (Pink/black).
Dave

 

Well, now, Dave, this is what I was looking for.
Somebody to fortify my concept, OR give me a better idea.
Sometimes it takes me a while to figure out electrical things.
I'll need to think about your idea to put it into practice, unless you can give me some good directions.
Are you tell me to use the relay to open the circuit (which would have the power to the relay always on).
OR, are you telling me N-O-T to use the relay, and use the switch (in line)
to open the curcuit of the pink & black wire.
Since the switch is rated at 30A, it should do the (whole) job.
I was thinking along the lines of having a relay do "the" work, instead of a switch.
I thought, possibly, the contacts in the relay would be better than using (just a switch).
Thank you for your patience in trying to figure out what I want.
I realize some of the ramifications of having the truck towed, and a few things like that.
I know locks are for honest people.
I didn't think about "them" popping the lock , and still having access to a "running" truck.
Not being a crook, I don't think like one.
I just want to drive my truck back home after visiting the "Big Apple".
If "they" want to steal something, "they" are going to do it.
I was thinking, I just want to slow "them" up.
Most generally, two heads are better than one, trying to figure out a solution to a "problem".

Thanx, Gene

 

When looking at antitheft systems ther are acouple of things to understand. Some kid will knock out the window if the door is locked , put a screwdriver in the ign switch and turn the switch on start and off he goes. With your switch idea it won't start and he will move on the next one rather the fool with it. Next is the pro.. he will pop the door and pop the lock and off he goes, unless its a patts or other system. ( he knows which one they are and won't even try them) Then there are the real pros, the will pull up with a tow truck, dump some oil under the wheels if you have a boot it is, slide the lift under it pull it up on the truck, pop the hood cut the battery cable, and off they go.
Things to remember is if its a high dollar vehicle the pros are after they will most likely get it if they want it. If its some kid a patts/aftermarket or gas flow shutoff will stop them, and if its some really young kid an alarm sticker and locked door will stop them.
Rangers are not high value targets, so you only have to worry about joy riders, lock the door, park in well light area/parking grarage and a gas cut off switch if you want and you will be fine.
Dave

 

Dave,
Thank you for your ensight.
I was thinking this through today, driving down the street.
I came to a conclusion, NO relay is needed.
The 30 a switch I bought should do the trick.
It's not such a thing as I would be engaging the switch/relay "system" I previously suggested, after I turn on the ignition.
I would push the button on the concealed swicth before I turned the key in the ignition switch.
NO load, NO arching, etc.
I don't know what the load is on the pink&black wire, BUT, it is a small gauge wire, SO I conclude NOT a big amp draw.
Besides, kinda like you say, it's like trying to hide candy from a kid.
If "he" wants it, "he'll" get it.
It's all hypothetical at this juncture anyhoo.

/Gene

 

I just take out fuses. if the switch goes on, and the guages/lights don't. most think dead battery...too much trouble...move on. I also leave a protective coating of GA red clay. Everyone thinks my trucks are junked out anyway.

Locks...good idea. didnt mention wheather or not power doors/sliding rear window. Either of these and entry is about 2 minutes away with little to no evidence, besides, most theifs just order the $15 JC Whitney slim-jim kit. factory alarm just makes noise. when my switch went out, I just took out the alarm fuse and drove to the Ford store. Oh yea, if they do the screwdriver thing, it will disable the factory alarm anyway. (key-on kill switch)

Another idea, if you dont mind opening the hood, keep the starter and fuel pump relays with YOU at ALL times. The fuel relay wont let the truck run, and the starter relay wont let the truck crank, saving your starter and rings.