OK just did my front rotors. What a PITA. The trick I used was to buy a cheap 4ton bottle jack at pep boys(12 bucks). I put it on the bump stop tab and used it to pry the rotor. Once I put a good amount of pressure on the rotor I used a propane torch to heat the rotor. I heat it good and I can hear the rotor loosen. It pops right off without hitting it. Once it pops remove the jack and a few taps on the rotor and its off.

 

Anything is better than beating the tar out if it. Any concerns with warping the rotor by overheating with the torch?

 

well if your rotor is rusted on and you have to use any of the "tricks" we post on this forum to get it off, i wouldnt recommend putting that rotor back on, new ones arent expensive....and dont forget the anti-seize on the back of them so it doesnt happen again.

 

I heat the hub portion of the rotor. I was replacing them anyway. They were $25 bucks each.

 

Well after reading the nightmares on this board concerning Exp front rotors I am now in a position to speak from experience. 2003a E/B, 74,000 miles, original rotors. I sprayed a little loosen juice along the seam and used a propane torch and a small crow bar. Ran the torch along the rotor side of the seam for about 40 seconds, applied pressure between the rotor and the caliper mount. Not a whole bunch of pressure just a pretty good pull. Gave it a tug, rotated 15 degrees, gave it a tug, repeat.... "Tink", heard the wonderful sound of the rotor letting loose. I ran a sheet of sandpaper around the hub and applied a little caliper grease to the hub before sliding the new rotors on. I stress that I ran the torch on the rotor side of the seam. Wanted the majority of the heat to soak into the rotor and not the hub. Soaked out some brake juice from the reservor, compressed the calipers with a C-clamp and one of the old pads, lubed up the caliper guides, threw in the new pads and bolted it back on the truck.

It's now day four and there is no dust on my wheels! I searched all over Hell's half acre and finally found my Torx T-35 from my previous brake experience with my 2001 E/B only to find out that it is no longer required to complete the job on the 2003 and up model.

Geo!