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1991 Engine into a 94 (Explorer)

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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 04:45 PM
  #46  
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From: Phoenix
Did you also get the gas vapor canister solenoid hooked up - remember your canister was hooked up to the DPFE sensor? The solenoid was supposed to be on top of the lower intake manifold and tee to the thottle body with a vac line.

The EGR vac lines are high temp, silicon impregnated I think, but this does make them special and not rugular old rubber ones. I would think an auto parts like Napa would have this in rolls sold by the foot.

I was just lookng at my set up the other day and it sure looks like the tubes are 2 different sizes. I suppose you could stretch the smaller diameter tub over the bigger port but I wouldn't recommend it - will just tear sooner.

I think your identification of the EGR/DPFE port locations are OK. What you describe matches my picture on page 1 of this thread.

The EVR solenoid does need 2 vac lines. One goes in and when the electrical solenoid is activated, one goe out to the vacuum operated EGR valve. It's a pain to see these. I'll look at mine after work and let you know which one goes to manifold and which goes to EGR valve.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 05:05 PM
  #47  
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The vapour cannister issue I resolved long ago. It was a quick and inexpensive fix after a trip to a U-pull yard. It cost me $5.00 for the vacuum tubing and solenoid combo. That took care of one of my wire connectors that needed a home. The other now has a place to plug in the EVR.

I'll get the high heat tubing this evening and route the DPFE/aspirator lines and if you can enlighten me on the EVR/EGR vacuum routing I'll be ready to see if my "CEL" is a thing of the past.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 05:40 PM
  #48  
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OK. Heading out of the office now. Check later tonight on here. i bet you get everything going right but then end up havin a bad PCM Wouldn't that just be the kicker? There have been several bad PCM posts lately....I hope I didn't just jinx you!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:09 PM
  #49  
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OK the top one goes to the manifold and the bottom goes to the EGR. There is a special rubber fitting for this that connects to the solenoid, a single piece with 2 nylon vac lines comming off it. They have rubber ends on them to affix at the termination points. It would be cleaner to find one of these little vac line assemblies but if 1/4" vac line works, go for that.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 11:53 AM
  #50  
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It's all re-assembled but I had to use a makeshift assembly for the vacuum lines to the EVR.

I now have two continuous memory codes:

215 cylinder identification circuit error
336 EGR voltage higher than expected

I have the front end taken apart so I'll finish the suspension and go back the the emmissions.

Any feedback in the meantime would be most helpful.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 10:06 AM
  #51  
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I see 215 as "EEC detected coil 1 primary circuit failure" - could also be cylinder ID error related. I got a cylinder ID error and put new plugs/wires on to remove it. See which 2 cylinders the first coil goe to and see what those plugs look like. Could be a bad wire or maybe a bad coil pack itself.

336 I see as "EVP or DPFE circuit voltage above maximum voltage with zero EVR duty cycle." I think you said the DPFE sensor was the only EGR item that came with the 94 motor right? Could be a bad sensor. You can possible measure the feedback voltage to verify the code. Not sure what else to do if everything else is new but change the DPFE sensor.

Could also clear the codes and see if they come back.

What are you doing to the front end? I'm gearing up, ha ha, to rip mine all apart, ball joints, dif cover seal, brakes, wheel bearings...
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 10:42 AM
  #52  
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It's a 214 not a 215 (sorry). That's that stupid Cam Position Sensor and we all know how much fun that is to fix/replace.

I have an extra DPFE from the manifold I bought from the wrecker. I'll give it a shot. The only non-Ford parts I have on the unit are the EVR vac lines and the two bolts used to fasten the EGR to the manifold (I ran the motor two minutes temporarily using regular non-heat resistant vac tubing from the aspirator to the DPFE just to check for codes). You're sure about the vac routing on the EVR? I'll swap/test the DPFE clear the codes and see what I get.

The front end is a big pain in the... Getting the pinch bolts out and the steering knuckle separated from the axle arm is the real issue. If you can get them moving your OK otherwise it's a chore. It took me two days for removal. You'll need a C-Press to get the ball joints out and new ones back into the knuckles (loan from Autozone). Follow the Haynes. Good opportinity to inspect/replace wheel bearings, turn rotors, new pads, caliper maintenance etc. Check the stamping on the passenger side axle arm or run the VIN to see if you have a DANA 28 or DANA 35 front end. Visually check the parts when you purchase to see that they match because it seems to be confusing for aftermarket people to figure out what you actually need.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 11:09 AM
  #53  
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214 is cylinder ID - may not be a bad cam sensor. Like I said on mine, plugs/wires fixed it.

I think I see the problem with your EGR circuit now, the 2 non-Ford bolts. Need to go to the dealer and pay $5.50 a piece for them and then the system will work OK

Top port off the solenoid went to manifold tree. I double checked it before I posted that last time.

Thanks for the warnings on the front end. Now I know why I've been putting it off for so long. BTW, Explorers never had the baby dana 28's - just Rangers/Bronco II.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #54  
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On the DANA 28... I heard that too (from other posts etc) but Ford swears that I have a DANA 28 not only from the VIN but from the axle stamp. It was confirmed by a mechanic who was lounging around the service area. Aftermarket also list the DANA28 or DANA 35 for ball joints. I'm still a little confused but I'll have a real close look at the replacement parts before installing.

I'll try the EGR bolts and see. I also had to "rebuid/rewire" my cam sensor because the connection broke off when I disconnected it last winter. I have a feeling I'll need to trouble shoot that whole area again (as per our other thread with TCMC). It's a PITA.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 11:36 AM
  #55  
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Huh! What a mystery. Maybe the real early model 1991's used 28's? Maybe Ford ran out of parts and dug into the Ranger stock room?
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 12:32 PM
  #56  
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I'm building the 94 though. I'll compare the parts and keep you posted.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 08:25 AM
  #57  
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I took one of the steering knuckles into NAPA to double check the parts by matching them up (I haven't pressed them out yet). Visually they are without a doubt a DANA 35 system. The upper is plain obvious due to the shape of the post where the camber adjuster inserts. It is a non-tapered post whereas the DANA 28 is smaller and tapered. The difference in the lower is a bit more subtle but it is also definately a DANA 35.

As I told you Ford told me DANA 28 from the VIN. This was TWO different dealers.

I think I'll start an "FYI thread" on the issue and see if anyone else has any feedback. Maybe the previous owner had new ball joints installed and the shop installed D35 into a D28 system but I doubt it.

I'm pulling another CMP this weekend from a bone-yard and I purchased the required OEM hardware required for the DPFE/EGR system yesterday.

I'll post any results next week.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:19 AM
  #58  
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I don't think the OEM vac lines, if that's what you bought, would eliminate the high flow code. If all the rest of the components are new and the 2 DPFE's are used, I'd try a new one if the code is still there. I've seen a lot of threads on bad DPFE's even though my original is still on and apparently working ok - without codes anyway.

As I think of it, the VIN code has no indicator for axel type - just gear ratio. So I'm not sure why the dealer would say the got the Dana 28 from the VIN. I could be wrong but I'll check that out tonight at home. The owners manual has a VIN decipher code/matrix.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 12:04 PM
  #59  
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I haven't tested the second DPFE or tested the connector for voltage/resistance etc. I figured I may as well get the proper bolts and vac lines before I go further. It can't hurt and the vac lines won't melt onto the aspirator tube. I'll reconnect everything today and see what we get. Ford parts guy told me the DPFE's are notorious for failures.

As for the DANA35... one of the two dealers did suggest the DANA28 due to the gear ratio from the VIN. The second dealer didn't mention why he suggested DANA28 but he used the VIN number for reference.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 12:36 AM
  #60  
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Yup - you need Ford bolts on every part of the car, or, it will know! Ever see the movie "Christine" by Steven King? Now you know what I mean!

So I think you need a new DPFE too.

I replied to your other post on the Dana issue.

Cheers!
 
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