So, I'm driving home from work this past Fri. and about 2 miles from the house I push the clutch and shift into 3rd and the pedal sinks to the floor and stays in that position.
Hoping I don't have to stop at the last light to the house I figure I will stay in 3rd gear the rest of the way home. Luck has it I don't have to stop untill I reach the house.
I get under the truck and see that a part is missing from the equalizer? bar to the clutch release lever. There is nothing there to release the clutch. I think it is called an adjustablt clutch rod???
In the 66 shop manual it is found in volume 1, page 5-15, part no. Rod 7530.
Does anyone know if this is the part I'm in need of? If so do you know where I can find one?
I have done a google search and have come up empty.
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

What you need is C6TZ 7528-G, replaced by DoTZ 7528-A. this is the adjuster between the bellcrank to the clutch fork. These bend or break all the time. They are obsolete from Ford. I found some on the locator

DoTZ 7528-A

Dale King Obs Liberty, Ky 1-877-246-111

Wesley Obs Liberty, Ky 1-606-787-5293

Call them up and ask.

Barry

 

Same thing happened to me last year. I just slapped a C6 in there and no more clutch problem. Did have to shorten the front drive shaft though.

 

If I'm not mistaken that part is still available aftermarket. Motormite's "Help" line I believe carries it for a few bucks. If not your local Ford dealer should likely be able to locate a Ford part for you. The part was the same from 65-72 if not longer. LMC has one listed for $9.95 if nothing else. Part#43-6252. You can get everything you need for rebuilding the whole release mechanism through them. Hope this helps!!!

 

Can't get it thru Ford, It's obsolete, that's why I listed some obsolete dealers for him. ( I work in a dealership parts dept, 30 yrs experience, ) I went thru this last week on a 77 F-250.

Barry

 

Thanks guys. You're the greatest! I will let you know what happens.

 

Yes "HELP" still has them. I lost mine on the side of the road now it has threaded rod in it cause it was in the bed at the time. and a spring from fork to bellcrank to hold it in there.

44

 

Happened to me last year to, I believe I was shifting into 3rd too...I wasn't as lucky as you though and ended up getting it towed. Now I'd just drive w/o the clutch, but that isn't so easy sometimes, especially at those darn stoplights. I found that piece at my local Autozone, it was only a couple bucks, good luck.

 

Drive without using the clutch? how do you do that?

 

Driveing without a clutch is an art form, but can be done. Try it this way, on a nice flat stretch of road, with no traffic. Next time you are want to go from 3rd to 4th or whatever, just let off the gas and ease the tranny out of gear with no clutch. Now, don't let the engine idle all the way down, but just ease off to about where the rpm would be in the next higher gear. You can "feel" the correct speed as the syncros try to syn your unclutched tranny. And it will pop in. No clutch at all.

Now, you may ask, how do you get started? Well, so long as you have no neutral safety switch, you just put her in 1st gear with the engine off, and start in first. Away you goes!!!! Not so nice to your starter, or ring gear. But OK in a pinch. If you are starting a cold engine, I'd start her in neutral and warm it up first.

Now, the true old timers can tell you how to down shift without the clutch. I am always hit or miss with that. Somewhat akin to double clutching, which I cannot explain right now either. You have to rev up the engine to find the lower gear.

Doing this with some modern trannies will crap the syncros out fast, so its really better to use the clutch.

But you asked.....

 

It shouldn't fall out if the anti rattle spring is installed between the equalizer arm & clutch fork.

Also you can use a cable from self adjusting brakes to keep it from getting lost if it does fall out.

Back off adjuster point & pal nut, insert pushrod thru big end of cable. Fasten hook end to either equalizer bellcrank or clutch fork with a short length of mechanics wire, tie wire or aircraft safety wire. If/ when rod manages to fallout it hangs there so you can replace it.

I did what mike scott did & used an A/T so I don't have the problem, but my solution above has been used on lots of Manual Shift vehicles using the pushrod set up.

FBp

 

Well I'll be...