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Question for those with mechanical gauges

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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 03:02 PM
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Question for those with mechanical gauges

Well I used some leftover birthday and Christmas money to buy mechanical oil pressure and water temperature gauges. I've been outside looking around for a place suitable to run the capillary tubing through the firewall ('87 F150, manual transmission). The best solution I've been able to come up with is to run both tubes through the grommet where the cruise control wiring and vacuum bleed to the brake pedal go through. In order to get the water temp probe through, I'm pretty sure I'll have to take out the wiring and vacuum hose to get enough room, but once the probe is through, there should be plenty of room for just the tubing. Anyone else use this grommet, or did you drill a hole for each gauge tube? If you drilled a hole, where abouts did you drill it? Seems like a good place on the inside is not a good place on the outside, and vice versa. Thanks for your suggestions. I should have a chance either later today or sometime this weekend to get these things installed, so if I don't hear anything before I start, I'll just post back whether it worked or not.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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I've run other things through firewalls, with similar issues. The end of the thing you're pushing through is larger in diameter than the wire going to it.

The trick is to drill the hole just large enough to pass the larger end, then backfill that with a rubber grommet with a hole the same diameter as the wire. What you do is slice the grommet from the outside edge, to the center, then after you push the sensor through, slip that split over the wire, and push into the firewall. Put the slit down, and it won't leak.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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I got the sizing I think (I have to drill a 7/8" hole for water temp). I guess placement of the hole is the biggest issue. I don't want the line to get kicked on the inside, or get in a hot spot on the outside. Any particular location you recommend?
 

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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 04:09 PM
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Offhand, no. I just run things in large clumps near the factory wiring, so I can use wireties to keep it all somewhat neat looking.

Obviously not on your exhaust system
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 04:11 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. Keep up the good work on the fiberglass dash!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 07:42 PM
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I have several things going through my firewall.

My positive battery cable for my stereo amp, my autometer gauges, my ECTED locker, and ARB locker electrical.

All of mine were drilled holes I made near where the throttle cable goes through the firewall. I used the location of the throttle cable to set where my holes would be on the other side, used silicone to keep everything dry, and so far so good.

That black padding back there hides some good areas to bring wires through. If you can find a good spot for it to come through on the firewall side that's sorta hidden, it's a bonus. I didn't really mind cuz the framerail goes nearby and the brakes were around that area so it sneaks right in ok.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 09:02 PM
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Thanks for the info. I've got the cruise control stuff pulled through to the cab, and next I'm going to try to fit the water temp probe through the gromet (just to the right of the throttle cable), then stick the cruise control stuff and oil pressure line through there too. I've run into a snag with where to actually mount the gauges now that I've actually started piecing things together. I'm thinking about screwing the mounting bracket to the bottom of the ash-tray/cigarette lighter thing. I was going to mount them above the a/c vent on the right side of the instrument cluster, but that's not flat, and the gauges and bracket look ridiculous up there. I already have a cb mounted to the right of the removable cover below the dash, so the only real option is the ashtray. I think the gauges will stay out of the way of the shifter boot there as well. Anyway, I'm headed back outside to start running the capillary tubing for the gauges. Hopefully it'll work out like I hope. I think I'd be less concerned if I was running wires through as opposed to the copper tubing because wire will make sharper bends. Thanks for all the input!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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Bout time I can atleast try to help ya for all the help you've given me...
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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I got the temp gauge in and working. Temp stabilized at 185° after going up to around 195° before the t-stat opened (180° thermostat). I'm excited, but I still have to run the capillary tubing for the oil pressure gauge and mount the bracket to the bottom of the ash tray. Right now it's wedged in there between the shift boot and the bottom of the dash. I did get the temp through the grommet for the vacuum line and cruise control wiring, although I'm not sure if I will be able to get the oil pressure tube through there too. It requires a small enough hole I wouldn't mind drilling a new one for that one to make my life easier (it was a pain to get everything back through the grommet. I should know my real oil pressure by the end of the weekend or early next week. I appreciate the help Justin!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 11:46 PM
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I thoroughly enjoyed having real gauges. I have a 192-195* t-stat in my 393, and it'll go up to that and stop, stays around 190-200. But I've seen it hit 210 before, hot days and even A/C at times...so far no overheating problems w/ the stock radiator but I'm sure it's looming.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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I put an aftermarket temp gauge in my truck and the temp fluctuates. If I'm on the highway runnin 70 it will be steady at 190. If I'm in town it will be anywhere between 185-190. Its never gotten above 195 while running. Now when I shut the truck off, the gauge will climb up to about 215 on a hot day. Now I just gotta figure out if that same type of gauge will work in my E4OD....
 
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 07:47 AM
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I got the oil pressure gauge hooked up yesterday. I bled all of the air out of the line to the gauge, but it still seems slow to respond. I don't know if there's something in the line creating a blockage, or if the pipe from the block has some sort of blockage. Oil pressure doesn't change as much with rpm as I think it should, and it takes about 5 seconds after the engine is off to drop all the way to zero. I had about 60 psi at 2000 rpm right after I started it, then after about 20 minutes of driving, some highway, it went to around 50 at the same state. Cold idle was around 50, and it got down to around 38 or so idling when I got home. Do those numbers sound reasonable, or should I take the pipe off and look for blockages? Temp gauge is doing well, it runs just a tick under 190° once it gets warmed up.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 08:02 AM
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IMHO your oil pressure numbers sound really good. MY old girl will still push 60 from cold, 35 - 50 on the highway depending on speed and loads (towing etc.) and at hot idle will run at aound 13 to 15 pounds. Those numbers tend to fall a little bit when I go to a lighter winter weight oil like a 5W-30.

Will you be posting a picture or two of your guage installation??

Cheers!

Mike
 
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 08:11 AM
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Thanks for the feedback! I'll get a picture posted in the next day or two. I forgot to mention that I'm running 15W40 oil, so that might cause the pressure to be a little higher. Does your gauge change pressure quickly with rpm, or is it slow responding too?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 09:09 AM
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That is good pressure.

In contrast, my high mileage 351W crewcab gives me about 10 at idle, up to a whopping 20 on the highway in 5th. In the winter I'll get a 5psi boost across the whole range, until she warms up, then it's back down to 10-20.

Tired, tired engine.

I'm running 10W40 all year round because of the mileage.
 
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