I know that I want to run a double-roller timing chain.
The ones I am looking at chain sets that allow you to advance/retard crankshaft timing by 0, 2 or 4 degrees and allow you to advance the camshaft timing by 4 degrees. Is this something I want to do? I assumed that I would have 0 degrees crankshaft and camshaft timing, recurve the distributor to 13 degrees (13 x 2 = 26) and set the initial timing to 10 degrees. Does this all make sense?
If I get a timing set that advances the cam timing by 4 degrees where does that leave me on the distributor and initial timing settings?

Or better yet, can someone recommend a timing chain set to get?

Should I use the early '68 - '71 timing set or the '72 - on set?
Engine is a 77 model.

Thanks,
Jay

 

Jay: Try this: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Cu...ML/359-363.asp

Compcams makes an adjustable double roller set that goes from 6 deg plus to 6 deg minus.

I'd recommend a goal of keeping the timing in the range where you can burn 87 octane pump gas w/o detonation or pinging.

John

 

I have been a mechanic for years, and I use on a 460 the early model 69-71 chain. If you want a roller Cloyes True Street roller is NOT pricey, and gives you a TDC keyway which is all you need for stock or mild building. I believe people go way over board with some of this stuff, If your building a race car that's different. I see guys get all fancy with high dollar six setting etc. then time the engine off the stock markings on the harmonic balancer. If your going to go through all that then you better have a dial indicator, aftermarket timing tape, etc. A rule that will never fail you, is "KEEP IT SIMPLE"

 

kermmydog, we are on the same wavelength. I bought the Cloyes True Street timing set for the 68-71 engines. I assume that it gives you 0 degrees cam timing and is adjustable for 4 degrees, either way, on the crank gear. Suggestions on which setup to use?
I was thinking 0 degrees crank. Phideaux, Any suggestions?
For what it's worth, I was going to take the advice of Bear 45/70 and turbo2256 and recurve the distributor to 13 degrees (13 x 2 + 26) and set initial timing at 10 degrees. Does the 0 degrees crank timing work with this or should I use the 4 degrees either way?
I use the truck as an everyday hauler, but want it to run it's best on 87 octane and pass those blasted emissions without retarding performance.
All info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jay

 

Well for my 2 cents worth. I put the Milodon double roller in mine. I played with all three settings. The plug is that the more its advanced the lower the torque rpm response. Most of my time is spent towing I ran it advanced. I pulled the timing cover several times trying different settings and after 50k pulled it down and put it at zero. Unlike the stock units there was no stretch in the chain after 50k. I didn't notice any difference in performance after putting it back to zero, and now I don't have any problem getting it through smog.

Kermmydog is right. If your not racing, put the darn thing at zero and forget it.

 

I will further Kermmydog's statement, you just need one that has the stock settings on it unless you have the tools, and knowledge to actually degree the cam in the extra settings on the timing sets won't help you much, and the "difference" in power by changing the settngs is rarely enough to notice without a dyno (can you tell exactly were your peak torque, and hp is now? probably not and advancing or retarding the cam timing 2 deg moves it less than 100 rpm) Do I run one with multiple timing settings? yes. I run the FRPP timing set with 9 keyways, but it's a race only engine and when I checked the cam and at the zero setting it was actually at 3 deg retarded in relation to the cam card specs, so I put it on the 2 deg advanced setting, and ended up at 1 deg advance so please not moving to a 2 deg different keyway moved the timing 4 deg.
About the only other reason I have seen guys move the cam is to gain a little piston to valve clearence with high lift cams usually rollers, but if you are running that much lift, and duration you should be checking it anyway.
my personal opinion is that if you are having to move the cam timing to get the rpm range of the cam you have were you want it then you have the wrong cam.