Power Windows Not Working
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Power Windows Not Working
My power windows are not working. And one of them is stuck in the down position. I'm hoping it doesn't rain anytime soon. Any ideas? I replaced the fuse/circuit breaker (what's the difference?) and it immediately blew again. I'm still under warranty. Just take it in and fork out the 100 bucks?
Greg K
Greg K
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: New Hampshire
gotta agree with c88 on that one... sometimes those electrical shorts are a bear to find... just make sure you get a good explination of what the problem was and what they did to correct it and it won't happen again right..?
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: NorCal
$100.. do you have an extended warranty?? If it's the 36K/3 warranty, it shouldn't cost you a dime.
I'd take a look at the switches on the doors. The drivers side runs through the passenger side to control the passenger side window. If one or the other got wet (easy to imagine if you see where the water will drip with the window down) it could explain your shorting out problem. Unplugging both switches and replacing the fuse might give you an idea on where to start.
I'd take a look at the switches on the doors. The drivers side runs through the passenger side to control the passenger side window. If one or the other got wet (easy to imagine if you see where the water will drip with the window down) it could explain your shorting out problem. Unplugging both switches and replacing the fuse might give you an idea on where to start.
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I bought this used, but my understanding is 5 years/100,000, with a $100 deductable is the basic warranty for 250 diesel
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Connecticut
I think the warranty that you are discibing,is the warranty for the deisel motor.5 years or 100,000 miles.Ford warranty is only 36,000 or 3 years.Unless u have an extended warranty.
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Joe Kucinski
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when you said it blew the fuse as soon as you replaced it ( without operating any of the switches), that tells me that your problem is in the power feed to the control switches. i would start by looking at the wiring harnesses in the door jams. they pass thru a rubber boot. start at the drivers door since it gets used the most. pull the boot back and look at the wires for damage. then repeat on the other doors ,if the problem is not found there. there should be plugs, where the harness splits, at each door...you can unplug all the doors and try installing another fuse, if it stays, then replug each door, one at a time untill the fuse blows and this will tell you which door has the problem in it. you can make yourself a circuit breaker ( resets itself ) setup to " temporaly " replace the fuse ( use the same amperage ) and this will save the expense of buying all of those fuses. use this setup for trouble-shooting purposes ONLY. hope this helps..as the dealer will charge you by the hour...ouch !!