OK...what are the differences in the two engine blocks-2.3 and the 2.5? Are there any diffenences and if so what are they?

 

The OBD1 engine (94 and earlier) is a different animal than the OBD2 2.3L and 2.5L Limas.

Internal (bore x stroke) is different and some external sensor locations are different between the OBD1 and OBD2 setups.

 

Are there any other differences as far as anything else that would make the 2.5 better than the 2.3? Basicially, if the only diffenences is the bore and stoke, y cant I just put a 2.5 crank in a 2.3 block? I race at a local dirt track so the engines use carbs. so the sensors arnt necessary. Just tryin to figure out what some other racees may be doin different to give them an advantage. Need some help!

 

If you're going racing, you might check these guys out:

http://esslingeracing.com/index.htm

In a stock block, they have stroker cranks that will take the 2.3L up to 2.85L.

 

Yeah I know all about that company but I just need to know the differences (if any) between a stock 2.3 and stock 2.5 block.

 

I think the 2.5L has smaller main bearings.

 

The stroke is longer in the 2.5. You would have to have a set of pistons and rods if you swapped the crank. The lima block did change bearing sizes, and if you fish around on this site, you will find the specs, by year. The distributor disappeared after a while, they added a crank pos sensor and a cam pos sensor, etc for distributorless ignition.
Essentially, the same engine since 1974. Modded & tweaked, but the same basic design.
tom

 

The racetrack we run at, all the Fords are using the 2.3 block and puttin the 2.5 crank in it. If everything is the same besides the rods and pistons, why arent they using the 2.5 block? Is there somethin in the 2.5 block to give them an advantage?

 

Hey, R-Man12! Sorry I didn't give you welcome when you first posted here, so I'll do it now. Welcome to FTE! Please check out the guidelines, they contain important info you need when posting here. Here's a link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html

Do your track rules specify stock parts only, or are you allowed a little leeway?

When I raced a mini-stock, I ran the 2.0 ('71-'74 Pinto/Capri version) but I built a few 2.3s for a friend. Now my co-worker wants to get into it and has decided on the 2.3, mostly for parts availabilty.

Here's my thought on the 2.5 block: Many tracks won't allow a crank trigger ignition, it's usually distributor only. When crank triggers first appeared on the 2.3, they merely plugged the hole where the distributor went. Now, I can't swear to this for sure, but I believe the 2.5, being a newer engine, is strictly crank trigger and has no provision for a distributor so most folks will stick with the 2.3 block for that reason. There may be another reason but that's what occurs to me.

Of course, it's still early in the morning and the brain isn't fully functional yet so I may be way off base here.

 

OK thanks 4 your help. Is there any other differences in the 2.3 block and the 2.5 block that u know of?

 

yes the later 2.3 had a small journal crank perfect for the 2.5 crank

 

The 2.5 block is a distributorless block and has no hole, I found this out when tearing out a 2.5 engine of a ranger for my pinto.

 

The auxillary sprocket only drives the oil pump on 95+ 2.3L and all 2.5L engines. There is no provision for a distributor and marks the first really significant change in the block design since 1974. There are a couple of years of 2.3L blocks that use the smaller main bearing journal diameters and can still run a distributor. Actually by using a spacer the 2.5L crank can be used in any 2.3L block as long as you're careful with the tolerances. There's a guy on the SVOCA site who has done just that with his stock 1984 2.3L block.

 

RMan-12, just look for a block from the early 90's. Make sure it has a rubber plug where the dizzy used to be and a crank trigger ignition. That will be a 2.3 block that has the smaller main journals the 2.5 crank needs. No spacers required. Put a 2300 Aux shaft in to run a standard diz and your good to go.

Well, except I don't think it'll have a hole for the mechanical fuel pump! I've heard you can cut it out yourself but I'd rather run an electric.

The 2500 rods are 5.45 in length but no one seems to use them much. The 5.2 length from the 2300 gets used all the time but it's too short for the 2500 crank. Better is a set of Crower 5.7's and that might be where the competition is getting the HP on you. Longer rods make the pistons spend a little more time at the top and the bottom of the stroke (increased dwell is the technical term) and another advantage is they get to work at less of an angle.

With the longer rods you'll need the correct pistons so they don't go poking out of the bores but they're readily available from Racer Walsh, Esslinger, Race Engineering, Midwest Motorsports, etc.

Gonna take some money tho. Grover Cleveland is on the thousand dollar bill and it'll eat up a couple of Grover's.

 

are you running an svo block or just a standard block?