buying lockers
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 3
From: Centerville, Iowa
Originally Posted by BFR250SD
Like I said up above, no amount of building can cure stupidity and a heavy right foot.
Back to the point. How long do you think that a LS lasts in heavy wheeling? If you rely up on a Trac-lok in a Mustang at the dragstrip with any sort of power on takeoff, you're not going to have much of a LS for TOO long. Same with wheeling. That front is NOT going to stay tight for long, unless he rarely plays with it. If he plays hard, I'd say he'll have less then 6 months before he starts getting pissed cause it fails to engage when he needs it, and it used to. Why do I say this? You may occasionally catch with the LS, but eventually it will be a one-wheel wonder too. With a locker of SOME sort in the front, he can at least leave one shaft locked and have positive 1-wheel drive in teh front, adn with the rear locked have three wheels definately turning. There's so many dynamics to it.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 3
From: Phenix City, AL
Saurian, I agree with you 100%. I'm not a big fan of LS unless you are just using the truck as a tow rig, then you don't want the locker. And I too would rather know that if I do snap an axle shaft, with a locker of some sort in back and front, I still have 3 wheels to pull out. With the LS, good luck.
If you do get an LS, avoid the clutch setup, get a cone unit or the TruTrac.
If you do get an LS, avoid the clutch setup, get a cone unit or the TruTrac.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 3
From: Centerville, Iowa
I am a bit skewed on my stance on rear locking. I like the idea of a spool. And any decent driver should be able to make it through even winter without trouble with a spool, but you can bet I wouldn't go over 45-50 in a snowstorm, but it'd be borderline foolish even with a locker or somesuch.
Positive traction, all the time. Cheap and easy. With a 9" I'm tempted by the 25 dollar minispool with a 15-20 dollar crosspin replacement, vs a 100 dollar full case spool. THAT is a predicament. Why can't all axles have that cheap of parts....
EDIT: So to not be a dick anymore, threefords, what is the use of your truck. You drive it to the place you wheel, is it sometimes your driver around town or anything? That's important. You could deal with it being a bit squirly and finicky if its just a short drive, but otherwise it'd be a tossup.
If only we all were rich enough for ARB, or even Electric. Too bad Ox is going out of business.
Positive traction, all the time. Cheap and easy. With a 9" I'm tempted by the 25 dollar minispool with a 15-20 dollar crosspin replacement, vs a 100 dollar full case spool. THAT is a predicament. Why can't all axles have that cheap of parts....
EDIT: So to not be a dick anymore, threefords, what is the use of your truck. You drive it to the place you wheel, is it sometimes your driver around town or anything? That's important. You could deal with it being a bit squirly and finicky if its just a short drive, but otherwise it'd be a tossup.
If only we all were rich enough for ARB, or even Electric. Too bad Ox is going out of business.
Last edited by Saurian; Aug 23, 2005 at 11:33 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 3
From: Phenix City, AL
Hey, the only reason I could afford the ARB's is being over here in Afghanistan. Nothing to do, no place to go, nothing to spend Tax-Free money on. Otherwise, my truck would look a lot different.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,871
Likes: 0
From: Coutts Canada
Now if this is goping to be used say a couple times a month a rebuilt ls with a few extra discs would be best, and it would be the cheapest. Now for the rear i would spend roughly 350 (ballparking it as my mine ran me 369) bucks and get a lock right locker (also known as the lunchbox lookers, but you won't have to setup[ the gears and what not). spend some extra and get a stronger crosspin.
I went with 2 lockrights at 360, and 369 bucks a piece, granted that adds up to a nice chunk of change (but my win on saturday paid for 90 bucks of that
), but it was well worth it for what i do and the tire size i run. (if i ever had the money to run 44's i'd be running rocky's with detroits and disc brakes). From the sounds of it the ls front and a lock right rear would be the way to go.
I went with 2 lockrights at 360, and 369 bucks a piece, granted that adds up to a nice chunk of change (but my win on saturday paid for 90 bucks of that
), but it was well worth it for what i do and the tire size i run. (if i ever had the money to run 44's i'd be running rocky's with detroits and disc brakes). From the sounds of it the ls front and a lock right rear would be the way to go.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Deerfield, NH
Thanks for all the replies. My truck is actually an 86 F150 with 78 F250 running gear,D60 rear and straight axle D44 front. I'm running 38.5 Mickey Thompson Baja Claws with 4:10 gears. I don't usually drive more than 10 miles to get to a wheeling spot but I don't want to trash my tires prematurely. I did a crossover steering conversion with dual stabilizers so there is little, if any, death-wobble on the road.
I have about a grand to spend and only want to do this once. Thanks again for all your help and advice.
I have about a grand to spend and only want to do this once. Thanks again for all your help and advice.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Deerfield, NH
One more thing. If I put a locker in the front and drive with the hubs in the free position won't that eliminate tire skuffing on pavement?
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Brett Foote
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
yes thats why i said that for your front you can leave your hubs unlocked and that leaves your options limitless. your rear is the concern. if you have a $1000 get an ARB for the rear and save up for the front. the locker itself will prolly run around $800, then throw on OBA system with a york compressor. PM me if you want as I have a couple of yorks laying around.
BTW Ramboss... lunch box means that you keep your carrier but istall all new guts.
-cutts-
BTW Ramboss... lunch box means that you keep your carrier but istall all new guts.
-cutts-
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Saurian
What's the difference between Ghog's Aussie and the Lockright? Rather, what is the Aussie? 250 bones vs 370 is a BIG difference. Maybe its just different cases...
Most people on Pirate say that the Lockright and the Aussie appear almost exactly the same.
There was a post on Pirate where Bill from Aussie chimed in with some of the differences between the Aussie and the competition.
Another thing going for the Aussie was that once I finished the install there seemed to be quite a bit of slop between the AL and the pinion shaft. There was enough slop that I didn't feel comfortable testing it.
I called AL and was put through to Bill who answered all the questions he could. He assured me he would have his tech call me and sure enough later that day his tech called and told me the lash was normal and that the install was good to go if all the other measurements were within specs.
It took me awhile to get used to the noise that it makes and there obviously is much more lash in the drivetrain than before but the AL is working superbly.
The AL also has no HP or tire size restrictions.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Saurian
So what is the physical/operational difference between Aussie and Lockright? I can't believe you get hte Aussie for 100+ dollars less and get hte same thing...
I've also seen AL run quite a few $199 specials in the PBB vendor forum.