2005 Excursion 6.0L No Start
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2005 Excursion 6.0L No Start
Would anyone have an idea of what could cause a brand new (1925 miles on the odo) 6.0L diesel Excursion not to start? This started about two weeks ago when the it wouldn't start until 5 or 6 cycles of the key and cranking. The temp here is in the 90's and the glow plug light stays on for about 5 sec. and goes off. It has done this 3 or 4 times but usually starts after trying for a while. This week it would not start in the parking lot after sitting for about 4 or 5 hours. Had it towed to the dealer. They waited to the next morning to check it, and low and behold it cranked for them! They kept it for 2 days trying to find the problem. No OBD codes no nuthin. I picked it up and it cranked 2 or 3 times fine. This morning it doesn't start! When this truck runs it runs fantastic. But when it doesn't, its dead. I just thought maybe someone else might have had the same problem and might have a suggestion.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 19,098
Likes: 8
From: Great State of Texas
Try this:
2005 Trucks, Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Runs Rough at Idle:
Pickups and vans built before 4-15-05 and Excursions built between 1-10 and 4-15-05 may exhibit hard or no start conditions with a low ICP signal, or a rough idle with a high ICP signal. This may be due to a damaged high pressure oil pump and/or IPR valve. The IPR valve should be removed (mounted on HPP cover under the turbo) and inspected for a damaged inlet screen or debris on over half the screen. If either condition is present, the IPR (5C3Z-9C968-CA) and the high pressure oil pump (5C3Z-9A543-AA) should be replaced, along with the oil and oil filter. If neither condition is present, continue with normal diagnosis. If a rough idle is present after replacing the above parts, injector damage may have occured.
TSB 50-12-3.
Another similar TSB:
05 F- and E-Series Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Rough at Idle:
Some trucks built before 11-1-04 may exhibit a crank no start with a low ICP reading, a hard start with slow building ICP, or a rough idle with a high ICP. If these symptoms are confirmed, remove and inspect the IPR valve. If the IPR screen is deformed, sucked into the valve, has a hole in it, or has metal debris covering more than half its surface, replace the HP oil pump (5C4Z-9A543-AA) and IPR valve (5C3Z-9C968-CA). If a rough idle is still present, the metal debris may have contaminated one or more fuel injectors. Perform normal injector diagnosis.
If the IPR screen is not damaged or contaminated, perform normal diagnosis as per the symptom.
TSB 04-25-18
Or this, though, it only mentions Super Duty:
Various Electronic and Driveability Symptoms and Codes:
2005 F-Super Duty trucks built before 5-11-05 may exhibit various electronic-related symptoms due to loose/miss-installed fuses in the engine compartment fuse box. These symptoms may be intermittent. The fuses should be inspected to verify they are installed into the terminals in the fuse box and not along side the terminals.
Fuses--Symptoms
#9, 20 amp: Trailer turn signals inoperative
#10, 10 amp: Check Engine Light; Codes P1633, P0446
#11, 10 amp: Speedo bounce, ABS light, Cruise control inop; Codes U1900, U2023, P0500-P0503
#12, 2 amp: Cruise control inop, TBC Fault displayed, chime; Code C2803
#13, 15 amp: Day time running lamps inop
#15, 15 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; Codes P2614, P2617, P1378
#17, 10 amp: A/C inop or not cooling
#18, 10 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; P2614, P2617, P1378, P0611
#20, 10 amp: Trailer back up lamp inop
TSB 05-11-14
Good luck
2005 Trucks, Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Runs Rough at Idle:
Pickups and vans built before 4-15-05 and Excursions built between 1-10 and 4-15-05 may exhibit hard or no start conditions with a low ICP signal, or a rough idle with a high ICP signal. This may be due to a damaged high pressure oil pump and/or IPR valve. The IPR valve should be removed (mounted on HPP cover under the turbo) and inspected for a damaged inlet screen or debris on over half the screen. If either condition is present, the IPR (5C3Z-9C968-CA) and the high pressure oil pump (5C3Z-9A543-AA) should be replaced, along with the oil and oil filter. If neither condition is present, continue with normal diagnosis. If a rough idle is present after replacing the above parts, injector damage may have occured.
TSB 50-12-3.
Another similar TSB:
05 F- and E-Series Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Rough at Idle:
Some trucks built before 11-1-04 may exhibit a crank no start with a low ICP reading, a hard start with slow building ICP, or a rough idle with a high ICP. If these symptoms are confirmed, remove and inspect the IPR valve. If the IPR screen is deformed, sucked into the valve, has a hole in it, or has metal debris covering more than half its surface, replace the HP oil pump (5C4Z-9A543-AA) and IPR valve (5C3Z-9C968-CA). If a rough idle is still present, the metal debris may have contaminated one or more fuel injectors. Perform normal injector diagnosis.
If the IPR screen is not damaged or contaminated, perform normal diagnosis as per the symptom.
TSB 04-25-18
Or this, though, it only mentions Super Duty:
Various Electronic and Driveability Symptoms and Codes:
2005 F-Super Duty trucks built before 5-11-05 may exhibit various electronic-related symptoms due to loose/miss-installed fuses in the engine compartment fuse box. These symptoms may be intermittent. The fuses should be inspected to verify they are installed into the terminals in the fuse box and not along side the terminals.
Fuses--Symptoms
#9, 20 amp: Trailer turn signals inoperative
#10, 10 amp: Check Engine Light; Codes P1633, P0446
#11, 10 amp: Speedo bounce, ABS light, Cruise control inop; Codes U1900, U2023, P0500-P0503
#12, 2 amp: Cruise control inop, TBC Fault displayed, chime; Code C2803
#13, 15 amp: Day time running lamps inop
#15, 15 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; Codes P2614, P2617, P1378
#17, 10 amp: A/C inop or not cooling
#18, 10 amp: Crank/no start, bucking, stall; P2614, P2617, P1378, P0611
#20, 10 amp: Trailer back up lamp inop
TSB 05-11-14
Good luck
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 18,787
Likes: 30
From: Melbourne, Aus
ronkaye,
Welcome to FTE.
Check out our Guidelines:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
And the Read First: notices at the top of each forum, it will help you understand and navigate FTE easier.
I think Keith answered your questions.
Oh, and you must read if you own a 6.0l
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/TOC.html
See you around...
BigF350
Welcome to FTE.
Check out our Guidelines:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
And the Read First: notices at the top of each forum, it will help you understand and navigate FTE easier.
I think Keith answered your questions.
Oh, and you must read if you own a 6.0l
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/TOC.html
See you around...
BigF350
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Joined: Aug 2005
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Fixed, turned out to be a bad cell in one of the two batteries. The one with the bad cell pulled down the voltage at start to something to low for the electronics to work right. I disconnected the bad battery and it started right up. The second battery had enough in it to turn it over like normal but if you notice, the battery on the driver side is the one with the hot lead to the electronics. That is the one that had the bad cell. Hooked up, it droped the voltage on the aux output terminal at the battery plus.
May be this can help some others.....
May be this can help some others.....
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 173
Likes: 3
OH WOW,
My hats off to you Ronkaye for figuring that one out. So the battery voltage dropped off enough to stall the electronics but the engine still turned over, and with another battery connected with what looks like 2/0 cable. Do you think that that large wire which I guess goes to the electronic systems was just loose? What was the cranking voltage, did you happen to measure it.
My hats off to you Ronkaye for figuring that one out. So the battery voltage dropped off enough to stall the electronics but the engine still turned over, and with another battery connected with what looks like 2/0 cable. Do you think that that large wire which I guess goes to the electronic systems was just loose? What was the cranking voltage, did you happen to measure it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 19,098
Likes: 8
From: Great State of Texas
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The condition eye on the passenger side battery was green and the driver side battery was red. The main battery plus cable down to the starter is on the pass. side. So the starter draw is mainly on that battery. Since there is a connection (a large one at that) from the pass. side battery plus to the driver side plus, you would think the other battery would make the difference. The driver side battery was at 8 volts, the pass. side was at 12 volts. During cranking the aux lead on the driver side battery went to 8 volts. The other thing is no lights (battery) or (engine) come on to indicate a problem. With the negative terminal undone on the bad battery it starts every time, with it connected it doesn't. Thats the best I can do to expain it. I am going to the dealer and get the bad battery swapped out Mon.
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Joe Kucinski
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 18,787
Likes: 30
From: Melbourne, Aus
Because of the cell being bad in the battery, it probably drops more voltage due to the internal resistance of the bad cell, than you actually gain by having it connected.
That is the beauty of having a 2 battery system connected in series.
If it was a 24V system you wouldn't be going anywhere.
That is the beauty of having a 2 battery system connected in series.
If it was a 24V system you wouldn't be going anywhere.
