i got it from the local ford dealers parts department.

 

Ford truck headlight switches have somewhere around a 20 amp breaker
and the load is pretty close to the rating of the breaker. Once it gets
a little weak any additional load causes problems. We always put relays
on them for the auxillary lighting. They are only a couple of bucks and
if you feed the headlights thru the relay(a major part of the load) you
may find them brighter.

 

I agree, but the circuit that keeps burning out is the running lights circuit. Looks like they undersized that circuit(tan/white wire) or the plugs were possibly a poor design and not making a good connection on the switch?

 

Guys, make sure Dave (franklin2) gets some rep points for this, I cant give him any, but anytime someone asks a wiring question, he whips out a wiring diagram, and he still only has one green dot, I think that needs to change........

 

Update......
For $ 12.90 at the local dealer picked up the "Universal" connector that Ford recommends for the 83 F150. However it does not fit. I took in the headlight switch, which is a Ford part by the way, and the guys at Ford couldn't get the "Universal" connector on either. So now, back to square 1, I guess it's off to the Junk Yard.

 

I did what I could....

now for the lightswitch. I ran out of the most important thing needed to accomplish that.......

Fundage!!

 

Is there a way I can determine where the wire might be bad and replace that section of wire??

 

I looked back through the thread and see that your running lights do not come on correct? If so, then the problem is going to be related to the tan/white wire. I know the picture is a little fuzzy, but hopefully you can make it out.

 

So the Tan/White wire is my power in?

 

Sometimes, wires will burn after someone tries to wire up a trailer harness. I doubt that Ford installed undersized wire.

Not all headlight switches have burns on the plugs.

I replaced my headlight switch this morning on my '83. The **** and shaft pulled out when I went to turn on the lights last night. The previous owner had told me that he pulled the **** too hard once, and had partially jammed the switch. It worked as it was for over a year for me. I installed a Ford original switch, and dimmer switch. Works just as it should. The plugs and wires are in good shape. I cleaned all the spade connectors in the harness and put it all back together.

Best thing: now I dont have to fiddle with the **** to get my instrument lights to work!!!

 

Quick question....
What if I don't have a Tan & White wire? Is it possible?
I looked on the side of the door and it says that the truck was made in April Of 83, any reason to think the connector is for s different model?
Thanks, B

 

As near as I can tell, I'm getting power in for the head lamps and the running lights, based on the diagram above. Ok, next thought?

Short in the out put wire??

Thanks for any thoughts.
B

 

Ok, Maybe I'm reading the diagram incorrectly (wouldn't be the first time)... Reading left to right, That would be front to back on the switch, that seem correct?

Thanks, B

 

The headlight switch has several power inputs.

Black/orange is for the headlights only.

tan/white is for the running lights and the dash lights only.

You should be able to take off the plug to the switch, and probe the plug with a meter or testlight, and get power all the time on the tan/white(yes, you should have this wire), and the black/orange wire.

If you get power on these inputs, then you can try another experiment. Take a short piece of wire, and jam it into the tan/white, and then jam the other end into the brown wire. The running lights should light up.

You can also test the switch. Eyeball were the tan/white and the brown wire locations are in the plug. Figure out which switch lugs go to the tan/white and the brown wire. Take an ohmmeter on rx1 scale. Put on lead of the meter on one of the lugs, and the other lead on the other lug you figured out. When you pull the switch half-way, and all the way, you should get continuity on the meter.

If you can't find the tan/white wire, figure it out by process of elimination. If you can find all the other wires, then there should be one left. If it's very dark colored, it may have already gotten hot and discolored it. They have been known to melt the insulation completely away.

 

UPDATE:
1) Its Fixed!!
2) I'm no mechanic!! Hehe...
3) My tan/white wire had burnt off, and I just over looked where it should of been on the connector. So long story short, I attached a new end, threw it into the existing connector, attached the headlight switch, everything works great!
Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.