Leaking 9" Rearend
If leaving the axles in the housing, make sure you support the axles on the end so you do not damage your axle seals. You might damage the lower part of the rubber seal, where you need it the most. Been there, done that.
In my experience tightening a leaking rear end does little. The damage is already done to the gasket and the space has filled up with road junk and axle junk and probably the 3rd member was not torqued correctly.
What has worked for me is to completely clean both the 3rd member mating surface and the housing down to bare metal (light sanding if required), clean with brake clean on a towel (dont overspray into the housing or unto the gears unless you intend to clean out the whole housing). Let it dry for ten minutes. Then apply BLACK RTV and smear a thin layer over the housing and goop around the base of the studs (!) near the bottom while avoiding the threads. Apply the paper gasket to the 3rd member (gasket glue is okay) and install. Torque to spec. The lower bolts you have to guess at since a socket will not fit, though if you alternate going around the housing (left to right, top to bottom) it will snug down fine.
Take a gallon of gear oil and put it in front of your brake pedal. Because you are going to let the gasket cure for at least a couple of hours and this way you will not drive on a dry rear axle. If possible I let mine cure overnight, though on a customer's vehicle, since everyone is in a rush, I just fill it.
I have used this basic procedure on everything from Explorers with plastic diff covers to my 1971 F-100 with no leaks.
When you have your 3rd member out, check the housing for cracks, but, especially check the 3rd member for cracks around where the studs go. If you have cracks you can fill them with JB Weld (not quick) and it should be a repair that will hold. Though the best thing is a new/used 3rd member.




