COP replacement
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Freshman User
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COP replacement
Had Goodyear do a scan on my 2001 Expy after the service engine soon light came on and it started misfiring. They scanned it and informed me that cylinder #5 was misfiring and it could be the COP, a bad plug or something else. I have spoke with several folks including a mechanic that I trust and they all say the same thing, bad COP. Advance Auto has them for $39.88. Is this a good price. Is it pretty easy to change the COP or should I have a mechanic do it? How do I determine which cyllinder is #5? After changing teh COP shodl the servie engine soon light go off or is there something that needs to be done to get it to go off? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Orlando, Fla
That's the best price you will find, Ford wants $99 for them.
It is the COP, not the plug, but it is recommended to replace the plug when replacing the COP, I don't, but its recommended.
The #5 is the first one on the drivers side.
You will need to clear the code when you are done, this can be done by undoing the positive terminal on the battery for 1 minute or paying someone with a scanner to do it.
How many miles do you have on it? This will determine your service time. I usually run around 100-120k between service.
Some recommendations:
Go and buy yourself a basic scanner, you can get them at Autozone (not sure about Advanced, but askem'), they run about $79 now and can erase basic codes like the one your experiencing and most common, but not the deep ones like O2 codes.
Also get a Haynes book (about $15) when your down at Advanced, this will help you diagnose problems and has the codes for your scanner and how to replace the parts.
You may say the scanner is expensive, but mine was $150 4 yrs ago and if you consider the cost of Ford to do a scan, its $89, others do it for $49 generally. It pays for itself immediately and you don't have to waste your time sitting at the repair shop or service center.
Hope this helps.
It is the COP, not the plug, but it is recommended to replace the plug when replacing the COP, I don't, but its recommended.
The #5 is the first one on the drivers side.
You will need to clear the code when you are done, this can be done by undoing the positive terminal on the battery for 1 minute or paying someone with a scanner to do it.
How many miles do you have on it? This will determine your service time. I usually run around 100-120k between service.
Some recommendations:
Go and buy yourself a basic scanner, you can get them at Autozone (not sure about Advanced, but askem'), they run about $79 now and can erase basic codes like the one your experiencing and most common, but not the deep ones like O2 codes.
Also get a Haynes book (about $15) when your down at Advanced, this will help you diagnose problems and has the codes for your scanner and how to replace the parts.
You may say the scanner is expensive, but mine was $150 4 yrs ago and if you consider the cost of Ford to do a scan, its $89, others do it for $49 generally. It pays for itself immediately and you don't have to waste your time sitting at the repair shop or service center.
Hope this helps.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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Replace it ALL once your there !!! The COP, the BOOT, The PLUG !!! They are a pain in the REAR from what i see in my 2000 expedition !!! It's cheaper and less STRESSFUL to replace it all at 1 time rather than going back and trying to find the problem afterwords !! GOOD LUCK !!
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Orlando, Fla
Originally Posted by 351cj
Replace it ALL once your there !!! The COP, the BOOT, The PLUG !!! They are a pain in the REAR from what i see in my 2000 expedition !!! It's cheaper and less STRESSFUL to replace it all at 1 time rather than going back and trying to find the problem afterwords !! GOOD LUCK !!
....the boot comes with the COP, so don't worry about that. The one you have to replace is the easiest of the bunch other than the #1.Depending on your miles (less than 75k), I wouldn't worry about the whole thing until 100k. To replace the whole plug arrangement will take about 4 hrs or so the first time. They aren't the most fun but if you take your time, its not so bad. You only need to replace the failed COP, not whole bunch. If you can get the anti-seeze for the boots, I would recommend it.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 304
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From: Connecticut
$39.88 is a very good price, I bought one from Autozone for around $50 and as mentioned, cost a lot more for oem in the dealership.
You're lucky it's #5, that's right in front of the engine, and so, the working position is not that bad. Plus, the location is not that tight, you'll find that you may may need to remove some bracket out of the way but its generally accessible easily.
Before removing the plug after taking out the COP, blow the hole with a good compressed air to remove any dirt trapped in there to prevent it from getting in the combustion chamber.
Good luck.
Orlee
You're lucky it's #5, that's right in front of the engine, and so, the working position is not that bad. Plus, the location is not that tight, you'll find that you may may need to remove some bracket out of the way but its generally accessible easily.
Before removing the plug after taking out the COP, blow the hole with a good compressed air to remove any dirt trapped in there to prevent it from getting in the combustion chamber.
Good luck.
Orlee
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 129
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From: IN
I will be replacing my plugs this winter. I have about 98000 should I replace all of the COPs and the plugs at the same time. I have not had any problems with them but it sounds like once you start messing with them you end up with problems.
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Freshman User
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Thanks to all of you for the responses. I changed it out yesterday and so far it runs great. The vehicle has 96K miles on it and I will be replacing all of the plugs in the very near future so I didn't bother changing the one in the number 5 cylinder on yesterday when I changed the COP. Hopefully it will continue to run good with no problems. Thanks to all again.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Orlando, Fla
Just a quick reply: check the electrode on your old one and compare it to a new one, (doesn't hurt to buy the plugs now they don't have a shelf life). You will be pleasantly surprised how evenly these new ignitions burn. Anyway if your electrode is widdled down to a toothpick point, replace all the rest it will help your mileage to. 96k is close enough to do the change and this way all the others will be in sequence. Just a maintenance tip....
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 304
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From: Connecticut
Wldcat65,
If you will diy, you may want to consider replacing COP #4 and #8 (both near the firewall) with the price of of replacement @ 39.88 per post above which is not bad - you could then save the replaced parts as spares. Once you get in there, you would understand why I'm suggesting this. For the other 6, consider replacing the boots available at Napa for $4 each, failure have been reported here due to bad boot. And remember to blow out the dirt off the hole using a good compressor before removing the plugs.
Good luck,
Orlee
If you will diy, you may want to consider replacing COP #4 and #8 (both near the firewall) with the price of of replacement @ 39.88 per post above which is not bad - you could then save the replaced parts as spares. Once you get in there, you would understand why I'm suggesting this. For the other 6, consider replacing the boots available at Napa for $4 each, failure have been reported here due to bad boot. And remember to blow out the dirt off the hole using a good compressor before removing the plugs.
Good luck,
Orlee
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 679
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From: Orlando, Fla
Orleec, your idea of replacing #4 & #8 is not a bad idea for sure and keeping them for future replacement on the others. The boots I'm not so sure of though, because the failure is usually a result of water getting into the plug cavity and shorting out, thus COP failure and swelling the boot from the heat generated. I've never had a problem with the boots other than that, make sure to put on the anti-seeze. Oh well, your choice in either case.
BTW, the water gets in generally from those car washes that blow water up from underneath to clean the carriage from salt and such.
BTW, the water gets in generally from those car washes that blow water up from underneath to clean the carriage from salt and such.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: IN
Originally Posted by High_Horse
Orleec, your idea of replacing #4 & #8 is not a bad idea for sure and keeping them for future replacement on the others. The boots I'm not so sure of though, because the failure is usually a result of water getting into the plug cavity and shorting out, thus COP failure and swelling the boot from the heat generated. I've never had a problem with the boots other than that, make sure to put on the anti-seeze. Oh well, your choice in either case.
BTW, the water gets in generally from those car washes that blow water up from underneath to clean the carriage from salt and such.
BTW, the water gets in generally from those car washes that blow water up from underneath to clean the carriage from salt and such.
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