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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 07:07 PM
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syn or not

Flash posted this statement in reply to one of my posts. I replied back and never got an answer...is this statement correct, "Low mileage and synthetics do not mix as the synthetics are more prone to corrosion than a dino in an engine that sits. Wear metals in a low mileage, sitting environment will be higher with a synthetic."???

You see, I change my oil ever 3 months and usually have about 2500 or less on the dino oil I use.

If his statement is is correct..someone explain how. PLEASE! I dont like synthetics anyway, but if Flash's statement is true (which it may very well be), then why should anyone bother with synthetic at all as most people fall under severe duty driving anyway? Geeez!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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syn is good for extened oci thats it and extreme cold. it flows better when cold and won't break down as fast thats why it is good for extened oci's. but it will produce higher wear levels and suffers from acid contamination.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 02:47 AM
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Synthetics might give you slightly better mpg, and can sometimes go longer between changes. Lately, I might drive over 1000 miles in a week, so I'm thinking about extending my 5000 mile schedule to 10,000. Obviously, I don't need to worry about condensation with that many miles.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 07:13 AM
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Synthetic also handles heat better and, having less viscosity index improver additive, should be less prone to thinning.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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I think, note: I think the reason for higher corrosion with synthetic oil in engines that sit a lot is due to the fact that the synthetic oil drains off the engine parts more completely. This can leave unprotected metal exposed to the environment. An environment that will contain moisture. This moisture causes rust which will wash off when then engine is started.

Except for the applications that TRULY demand a synthetic oil, I still favor today's high quality conventional products. They are way better than many folks give them credit for.

IMO, if you are changing your oil every 3 months (approx 2500 miles) you are likely throwing away perfectly good oil.
I have 5 or 6 used oil analysis reports on my F150 w/ 4.2 that show the oil is still in great shape at 5,000 miles.
If you really want to know, run one oil change interval for 5,000 miles and get a UOA done. I'll bet you'll find you can go 5K miles and be in good shape.
 

Last edited by BrianA; Aug 15, 2005 at 09:21 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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Do the high mileage ils also fall within the realm of being a good conventional oil?
Because really, they are conventional lubes as well.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 02:35 PM
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High mileage oil is a great alternative to conventional oil. Some have higher additive levels, like Citgo Ultralife (at least in SL version). In the case of Maxlife, there is about 15% synthetic (PAO).
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 07:31 PM
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Synthetic oils do not stick to metal parts like a dino oil will. They use a tackifier to solve the problem but it can only be of limited benefit. Using a synthetic oil in an engine that sits would be like starting it every time with a fresh oil change in that there is no lube until the system pressurizes. Overnite, not a problem but generally you will find that synethics will have elevated wear metals in the winter time and it is due to corrosion that appears as wear metals, primarily iron.

FWIW, with viscosities being equal, there are no fuel mileage advantages using a synthetic over a dino or blend. There is no more lubricity in a synthetic than a dino- they are not slicker. Generally any fuel mileage advantages are due to the oil being on the thin end of their respective viscosity range. M1 5w-30 is barely a thirty viscosity fluid at temp and generally shears to a 20 viscosity, for an example.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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SOoo, in the case of diesels, where the engine oil lubricates the turbocharger there is significantly more "energy" placed on the oil. What say ye in that case? I have been using Rotella synthetic 5w-40 for quite sometime because of it being around $14 per gallon at Wal-mart. I fell into some great even cheaper deals on Valvoline 15W-40, Penzoil and Castrol conventionals for the next 3 erl changes so I've changed to conventionals. I haven't really noticed a difference. I go about 4K miles between changes and my habits are grand-daddy drtiving with a little umpf now and then.
Any thoughts on turbochargers and their demands on oil?
 
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 11:22 PM
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in your case as long as it says on the back CI-4+ you will have a perfect oil for your use the + is the key as it is the newest formula.
 
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