Whats normal play? STEERING!
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
From: Floriduh
Whats normal play? STEERING!
GET YOUR MINDS OUT OF THE GUTTERS!!! I need to know how much is too much with reguards to play in the steering wheel on my 53 F-250. I know it's an old truck and it is going to have SOME play in it, but how much is TOO much? Help please???
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If when driving down the road the truck wanders with every bump and expansion joint while holding the wheel steady, or you have to swing the wheel in the opposite direction in a turn that's too much play! I like as little play as possible for highway driving comfort and safety, for low speeds around town IMHO freeplay of over 1" at the steeringwheel rim is excessive. YMMV!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
The shop manual doesn't give a "slop" specification, only the force that should be required to turn the steering wheel. I rebuilt everything on my stock front end - spring shackels/bushing/pins, wheel bearings, king pins and bushings, tie rod ends, drag link innards, and steering gearbox. With the front end on the ground, I can't move the outer rim of my steering wheel more than 1/2" before I see wheel movement. It's probably less than that - I just don't see as well as I used to. 
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 525
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From: Floriduh
Ok guys, thanks! Now, what all will I need in order to replace the regular box with a Toyota (ugh) pwr steering unit? I get almost a full 1/4 turn of the wheel before it turns the wheels.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
Why don't you just rebuild what you've got? Lots cheaper and Lots less aggrevation. Parts are quite available, Chuck's trucks has the parts. (860 288 2769.
Thats what I did on My '48 F-5.
Reamer
Soon to have the cab installed, now that the drive line and suspension is ALL new!
Thats what I did on My '48 F-5.
Reamer
Soon to have the cab installed, now that the drive line and suspension is ALL new!
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
I've got considerable play in my steering and litterly can swing my steering wheel back and forth before the wheels even move. I also get the wandering on surface streets. I look like those older movies where the guy is driving and steering the wheel is going back and forth LOL.... My suspension seems tight, the steering box is probably wasted. Is there any adjustment that can be made to the steering box to tighten up play? (I know, get a Toyota box)
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
Yeah, it can be adjusted assuming the worm and sector gears aren't totally worn out. Check in your shop manual and there is a section that describes the procedure pretty well.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The Toyota box is as easy an install as there is, all bolt on, it looks like it belongs there, and will make your truck steer like a new one. Since you're not a newby, do an advanced search on Toyota and/or Toy box in this forum for tons of info, or go to Mid Fifty web site for everything you need. The boxes are available used from salvage yards or rebuilt from your local Car Quest or NAPA store.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
I just got done reading my manual, and boy is it confusing. It's telling me to add shims and do all kind of crazy stuff. I though there was only a lock nut and a shaft screw to screw in to eliminate freeplay. I think I may have to go with the Toyota Steering box on this one. Now its a safety issue also. Thanks Earl and AX for the info. I found this info, if anyone is interested. imlowr2
<CENTER>1953-56 F-100
Toyota Power Steering
Conversion Kit</CENTER>
Read through instructions carefully before attempting installation.
<!-- #BeginLibraryItem "/Library/ModWarning.lbi" -->
Make sure this kit fits your application before painting or plating. Parts that have been painted, plated or modified may not be returned.
<!-- #EndLibraryItem -->
This kit is designed to be used with the stock straight axle suspension. The universal joints, steering shaft and steering column needed to complete the installation of this kit can all be purchased from Classic Performance Products.
<CENTER>1953-56 F-100
Toyota Power Steering
Conversion Kit</CENTER>
Read through instructions carefully before attempting installation.
<!-- #BeginLibraryItem "/Library/ModWarning.lbi" -->
Make sure this kit fits your application before painting or plating. Parts that have been painted, plated or modified may not be returned.
<!-- #EndLibraryItem -->
This kit is designed to be used with the stock straight axle suspension. The universal joints, steering shaft and steering column needed to complete the installation of this kit can all be purchased from Classic Performance Products.
- Remove the stock steering box and column. The spring bump stop will also need to be removed. Be sure to clear the area of all wiring, brake lines and fuel lines.
- Bolt the Toyota box to the mounting bracket. The long end of the bracket is the bottom. Locate the box/bracket assembly into the frame by centering the Toyota sector shaft through the original hole in the frame. Clamp the bracket in place once this is done.
- Drill a hole through the side tab of the mount into the frame. Remove the steering box from the bracket and proceed to bolt the bracket to the frame. In some cases the edges of the bracket may need to be rounded off in order for the bracket to fit completely against the frame.
- With the first bolt in, check the fit by reattaching the steering box. Make sure the splined shaft goes through the frame without interference. Pull the box off.
- Drill holes through the top and bottom edges of the frame and bolt the bracket into place. Torque down the mounting bolts to 60ft/lbs.
- Bolt the steering box to the bracket. Torque down the steering box bolts to 60ft/lbs.
- Attach the pitman arm to the steering box. Before this is done the steering sector must be centered. Turn the input shaft clockwise as far as it can go. Make a reference mark. Now turn the shaft counter clockwise as far it can go and be sure to count the turns. Turn the shaft back half the distance and now the box is centered. Be sure to double and triple check this procedure. Attach the pitman arm to the output shaft with the output shaft nut. Torque the bolt down to 110ft/lbs. Reconnect the stock drag link and you are on your way.
Last edited by imlowr2; Aug 12, 2005 at 12:18 PM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 823
Likes: 4
From: Calais, Vermont
I got a 53 F-100. It had excessive play even after I gave it new kingpins and rod ends. Doing that made only a little bit of difference. But I got accustomed to the truck steering like a boat, so I didn't do anything else until recently. After I saw the condition of the steering worm gear on page 9 of "Earl's World" I took a look at my own worm. There was practically nothing left. The "Earl's World" worm gear is in excellent condition compared to what I found in my own steering box. I would recommend that you look there for the excessive play. The steering can still work, even if almost all the worm thread is broken off. It just doen't work very well.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
Adding or subtracting shims is the method of getting the force on the column shaft bearings correct. It does have some effect on the steering looseness, but not nearly the effect that the worm/sector gear adjustment does.
The primary thing to do as far as the shop manual goes, is adjust the screw with the lock nut on the side of the box. This pushes the sector gear toward the worm gear so they mesh more tightly. Jack up the front of your truck and adjust the screw until the steering just binds with the wheel passing the center point, then back off the adjustment just a little. That's all there is to it. Once you've done that, you'll have the steering box adjusted as good as it's going to get with your current hardware. If it's still loose, you probably will need to rebuild - unless the number of shims for the bearing adjustment is WAY out of whack.
The primary thing to do as far as the shop manual goes, is adjust the screw with the lock nut on the side of the box. This pushes the sector gear toward the worm gear so they mesh more tightly. Jack up the front of your truck and adjust the screw until the steering just binds with the wheel passing the center point, then back off the adjustment just a little. That's all there is to it. Once you've done that, you'll have the steering box adjusted as good as it's going to get with your current hardware. If it's still loose, you probably will need to rebuild - unless the number of shims for the bearing adjustment is WAY out of whack.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Taylor, MI
Toyota conversion
I would reccomend using the Mid-Fifty "V" shaped bracket, no drilling or welding. Same price. Be sure to get the power steering hose fittings, they may be hard to find. I have done this conversion and it is definately the way to go. The hard part is to get a PS pump to fit your engine. I would reccomend getting all of the pump parts off the same engine, including the crank pulley.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
From: Floriduh
I have seen that the copper bushings are missing/non-existant and that the pitman arm moves up and down when I move the steering wheel. However, when the pitman arm stops moving up and down, the wheels move right away. I think I will try just replacing the bushings first and see where I end up. hopefully, it will cure my problems. If it does, I will leave it as is until I get to Fla. I think the old tires on the front may be contributing to a rough and uncomfortable ride up front as well. They are old bias ply tiers. I will be switching to some radials in about a week.....I'll let you know what that nets me.
