Question about duraspark
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 3
From: Eustis FL
I think what you want is the Duraspark II. The first Duraspark ignition I believe came out around 1974 or so, but it had limited dwell capabilities and maybe other issues, but in the following years the D2 was released, and it works great. I never buy jobber modules. I went through 2 in one month. Bought a factory Ford unit and all was well. I even trust Motorcraft modules from the junkyard over the jobbers, and frequently grab them to keep as spares for my Fords.
What year vehicle is your engine in? There is a simple color code chart posted somewhere to help you wire it correctly to your ignition and power supply, coil, distributor, etc. 6 wires total, though I have seen 7. (4 wires in one harness, three in the other, instead of 4 and 2)
You will need all the components of the Duraspark II to make it work. Look for the larger diameter dist. cap if going used. You can convert the small cap to a large with a factory spacer, but change the rotor too.
Hope this is what you were after.
Mark
What year vehicle is your engine in? There is a simple color code chart posted somewhere to help you wire it correctly to your ignition and power supply, coil, distributor, etc. 6 wires total, though I have seen 7. (4 wires in one harness, three in the other, instead of 4 and 2)
You will need all the components of the Duraspark II to make it work. Look for the larger diameter dist. cap if going used. You can convert the small cap to a large with a factory spacer, but change the rotor too.
Hope this is what you were after.
Mark
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 320
Likes: 1
Here's a blue grommet on a Duraspark module:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/1/b/1bad6t/duraspark-module.jpg
It's the blue connector that the wires are going into on the side of the unit.
http://bellsouthpwp.net/1/b/1bad6t/duraspark-module.jpg
It's the blue connector that the wires are going into on the side of the unit.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 886
Likes: 1
From: Houston/Hope BC
Yes, keep the resistor. My concern is the DSII box or coil overheating from the additional current you'll get without the resistor.
Last edited by Ecuri; Aug 8, 2005 at 04:35 PM.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 15
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I thought that the TFI was made to run 12V?
By the schematics it does.
I don't see how the module would overheat, it just sends the signal.
I don't know, I am trying to understand.
By the schematics it does.
I don't see how the module would overheat, it just sends the signal.
I don't know, I am trying to understand.
Last edited by 8man; Aug 8, 2005 at 07:57 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 886
Likes: 1
From: Houston/Hope BC
All the spark energy that is stored in the magnetic field of the coil and dumped through the module. The module does the same thing as the points except with a transistor. No resistor = more current = more heat. The coil may or may not take it, you'd have to check with the MFG. I have serious doubts about the DSII module taking anymore internal heat than it allready does. (Wells seems to make the best replacement for longevity.)
MSD talks about it a little, that is one of the benefits of CDI, the spark energy is stored outside the coil in the capacitors instead of the windings of the coil.
MSD talks about it a little, that is one of the benefits of CDI, the spark energy is stored outside the coil in the capacitors instead of the windings of the coil.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 886
Likes: 1
From: Houston/Hope BC
Hate to correct you, but that is not right. The module always gets +12V. (Red is run, and white is Start w/ spark retard.) The coil gets +12V on START and connects through the ballast resistor in the RUN position.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 15
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Saw something in another thread that has me thinking.
Battery voltage with the engine off is lower, hence no need for resistor in the start position.
Battery voltage goes up with engine running requiring the resistor to lower it to acceptable levels. Prevents some of the problems.
I believe it read that this was originally done to reduce the load to the points on the old systems, but it makes some sense to keep it around for protection.
If the resistor wasn't bypassed during starting the voltage would be low. Once the engine is running the resistor keeps the voltage from going up to the same levels as the alternator/charging system puts out.
I think that it makes sense.
Battery voltage with the engine off is lower, hence no need for resistor in the start position.
Battery voltage goes up with engine running requiring the resistor to lower it to acceptable levels. Prevents some of the problems.
I believe it read that this was originally done to reduce the load to the points on the old systems, but it makes some sense to keep it around for protection.
If the resistor wasn't bypassed during starting the voltage would be low. Once the engine is running the resistor keeps the voltage from going up to the same levels as the alternator/charging system puts out.
I think that it makes sense.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 886
Likes: 1
From: Houston/Hope BC
The operation of an induction coil is a fairly complicated electrical process. The resistor is there, IMO, to limit CURRENT. Voltage is seconday to the power output. The coil is not a transformer! It is one part of a DC to High Voltage AC converter and depends on the collapse of the magnetic field, the current that collapses is much more important than the voltage. However, no resistor at start = higher voltage and current = more energy to start. I wish I understood the finer points. Points handle about 4 amps before failure, the DSII is prob around 8 amps, and without the arc, wearing parts, and dwell issues of points. Transformers exhibit a simple ratio of turns to change voltage in AC curcuits, obviously more is going on in an induction coil because even a 100:1 ratio at 12V would only make 1200 volts.