LOST POWER ... now wont start
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Henry County, GA
LOST POWER ... now wont start
After reading through the postings i thought i might have short in UVC wires.
I have ohm out the 9pins on each VC gasket to find .8 ohms on all eight GPs and ~3.3 to 3.4 ohms on the injectors. There is no continuity to ground on the 5 middle injectors pins and no continuity to GP pins (outer 4) on either bank. ... Did not see any problems.
Is it correct when the CPS goes bad it is just bad ... no gradual two day type deterioration. My engine idled fine would not increase rpm without jumping. It only hesitated/hickuped under load (pulling hill) absolutely no power .... next day could hardly pull it out of drive ..idling was getting worse ...replaced fuel filter checked IPR o-rings .... now it want even start ... sounds like it is trying to fire up ... just jerks around. There is no SES light. Ive tried to pull pending codes .. there are none.
Could it be the MAP sensor?
Could it be the innercooler boots loose?
What other things can i check before i have take to the very expensive DR/Dealer?
99 PSD
I have ohm out the 9pins on each VC gasket to find .8 ohms on all eight GPs and ~3.3 to 3.4 ohms on the injectors. There is no continuity to ground on the 5 middle injectors pins and no continuity to GP pins (outer 4) on either bank. ... Did not see any problems.
Is it correct when the CPS goes bad it is just bad ... no gradual two day type deterioration. My engine idled fine would not increase rpm without jumping. It only hesitated/hickuped under load (pulling hill) absolutely no power .... next day could hardly pull it out of drive ..idling was getting worse ...replaced fuel filter checked IPR o-rings .... now it want even start ... sounds like it is trying to fire up ... just jerks around. There is no SES light. Ive tried to pull pending codes .. there are none.
Could it be the MAP sensor?
Could it be the innercooler boots loose?
What other things can i check before i have take to the very expensive DR/Dealer?
99 PSD
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
It's unlikely that the MAP could cause it, and impossible for loose boots.
Try starting it with the ICP (injection control pressure) sensor unplugged. That's the three wire plug on the inside of the drivers side head. You were right next to it when you had the IPR apart.
Try starting it with the ICP (injection control pressure) sensor unplugged. That's the three wire plug on the inside of the drivers side head. You were right next to it when you had the IPR apart.
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From: Henry County, GA
Unplugging my ICP did not change anything .... it sounds and smells like if may have fired .... still wont start .... I do not smell any raw diesel in exhaust .... Can a fuel pump gradually go bad over a two day period? I feel like it is my fuel pump or my HPOP?
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
I might be wrong here, but , the tach usually wont indicate during cranking if the cps is bad. Also check for oil in valley pan for leakage from HPOP, if that isnt full, it wont run right. Fuel supply pump might also be the culprit. I suppose you could open the fuel filter cap and see if fuel runs into the bowl with the key on. I dont profess to be a wizard but there's where i'd look. Hope it helps you out.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Have you checked all your fuses? If your fuel heater has shorted out and blown the fuse the PCM power will be cut. Can't remember exactly which fuse, but it'll be one of the maxi-fuses under the hood.
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From: Henry County, GA
Yes, I have checked all fuses, the only one i had blown was for my cig lighter and ODB ... found that one when i tried my actron. I replaced the idm Relay thinking that might be th problem .... but now im leaning towrds the fuel pump. Do the relays go bad .... wouldn't there be a SES light?
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
where is the reservoir for the HPOP located? How full is it supposed to be?
Is the fuel pump running? It should cycle on for 20 seconds with the key on. If it's running at all the engine should start....it only needs to make about 20psi for ignition, then maintain 50psi or so for normal operation.
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From: Henry County, GA
New info .... i checked the wires to fuel pump didn't see any shorts ... i knocked on it a couple of times ... now when i turn the iginition on it makes a vibration and some gurgling noises ...The engine started this time ... but would not idle well.
Sounds like i need a new fuel pump ... I will test the psi also.
Is there any rebuild kits for the fuel pump? How much is a new fuel pump? Where is a good place to get one?
Like everyone ... i need to save $$$$$$ where i can ...
Sounds like i need a new fuel pump ... I will test the psi also.
Is there any rebuild kits for the fuel pump? How much is a new fuel pump? Where is a good place to get one?
Like everyone ... i need to save $$$$$$ where i can ...
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Greg99F250SDPS73
New info .... i checked the wires to fuel pump didn't see any shorts ... i knocked on it a couple of times ... now when i turn the iginition on it makes a vibration and some gurgling noises ...The engine started this time ... but would not idle well.
Sounds like i need a new fuel pump ... I will test the psi also.
Is there any rebuild kits for the fuel pump? How much is a new fuel pump? Where is a good place to get one?
Like everyone ... i need to save $$$$$$ where i can ...
Sounds like i need a new fuel pump ... I will test the psi also.
Is there any rebuild kits for the fuel pump? How much is a new fuel pump? Where is a good place to get one?
Like everyone ... i need to save $$$$$$ where i can ...
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Autozone carries a Master pump for $179, but they don't generally stock it, so it'll take a day or two to get it. I got mine from Napa for $256 largely because it's a better Federal-Mogul pump and it was in stock same day. I don't know who would carry the factory Bosch pump aside from the dealer, but they wanted $331, and had to order it.
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From: Henry County, GA
Still not one hundred percent sure that this is my whole problem .... Can someone please make me feel certain that my fuel pump is the sole cause. Here is why ...
I took a wrench and tapped on the fuel pump pretty hard. The truck starts and idles fine now ...Back to orignal problem when pressing pedal the rpms go up but is somehwat hesitant ... kind of like a miss ... but when i reach above 1000 rpm it smoothes out and will stay smooth all the way to 2000 rpm doesn't even hesitate at all. Just in the transition of increasing rpms. i noticed at 1000 rpm the stick is jumping around about 1/4 inch. I will of course replace the fuel pump ... i just want to know if i need to keep my Dr.s Appointment with the dealer shop. It is set for thursday because they are a week behind.
I took a wrench and tapped on the fuel pump pretty hard. The truck starts and idles fine now ...Back to orignal problem when pressing pedal the rpms go up but is somehwat hesitant ... kind of like a miss ... but when i reach above 1000 rpm it smoothes out and will stay smooth all the way to 2000 rpm doesn't even hesitate at all. Just in the transition of increasing rpms. i noticed at 1000 rpm the stick is jumping around about 1/4 inch. I will of course replace the fuel pump ... i just want to know if i need to keep my Dr.s Appointment with the dealer shop. It is set for thursday because they are a week behind.
Fleet Owner
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
If your fuel pump required a smart spanking with a wrench, it needs to be replaced. No question there. I'm guessing that now that it's running it's only making just enough to give a very poor fuel supply to the engine, hence the driveability issues. Replace the pump and take it from there.