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hello, i'm new here. I've only changed spark plugs and have experience with 4cyl engines but i was blown away by how cramp my parents 2000 mercury mountaineer 4x4 6cyl engine. I read some of the post and search for info. from what i can gather most just remove the intake black plastic to get to the plugs. I don't think this will apply to this car(i haven't tried, and I may be wrong). i have a hayne manual which is useless. from what i can see i'm guessing the A/C tank and everything A/c related in the passengar side would have to be removed in order to get to the spark plug. I'm really lost and would most appreciate if someone and link me a write up or maybe someone can give me a quick how to remove the Spark plug and wire.
also in the hayne manual the torque spec for tightening is 80-155inch/lbs or so. does anyone know exactly what the specs car for this car. thank you
I have a 97 4.0 and it's tight too. I can remove all the plugs from the top. I'm about 5'8" and I have to kneel on the radiator and lean into the engine bay but I get them all. I use a 3/8" ratchet with short and long ext bars and a swivel . The wires are just as bad. Do them one at a time and thread them thru exactly where they were. Make sure you put them in the wire keepers to keep them off hot surfaces. The wires may take longer to repalce than the plugs. Once you do it once you'll remember the tricks for next time.
wow, so i guess it is possible to get all the plugs out without removing anything a/c or any additional components. well i guess i'll just try the wheel well method. anyone know the exact torque spec for the spark plugs. any additional trick to getting them out and not strippin the thread in the head would be great. thanks.
Remember to use some anti-seize lube on the threads of the new plugs, this will prevent any gaulling of the threads in the future. You will also need to reduce the torque specs by 40% when a lube is applied. Your new torque should be 9-10 foot lbs.
so whenever lube is applied you have to reduce the torque by 40%?
No, torque spec is the same...use anti-sieze sparingly, being careful not to get any on the electrodes, or insulator. Also use plenty of dielectric grease in the plug wire boots.....
Sorry Bob, but your wrong. When you torque a bolt you are stretching it to get the amount of tension you want. When you lube a bolt it takes 40% less torque to acheive the same stretch. If your still in doubt try this little test, take 2- 1/4" bolts and bolt them to a plate. With one of them take a torque wrench and tighten it in 5# segments. Note the torque it takes to break the bolt. Then add anti seize to the other bolt and do the same. You will find that the bolt with anti seize will break at about 40% less torque than the dry bolt.
Sorry Bob, but your wrong. When you torque a bolt you are stretching it to get the amount of tension you want. When you lube a bolt it takes 40% less torque to acheive the same stretch. If your still in doubt try this little test, take 2- 1/4" bolts and bolt them to a plate. With one of them take a torque wrench and tighten it in 5# segments. Note the torque it takes to break the bolt. Then add anti seize to the other bolt and do the same. You will find that the bolt with anti seize will break at about 40% less torque than the dry bolt.
Fitter
Thanks for your comment Fitter!!! I'll have to check, but I don't believe that
torque-stretch applies to spark plugs....I'll let you know what I find.
Fitter, looks like we have opened a can of worms here!!
In doing a search, I have found everything from 1) GM says NOT to use anti-seize on plugs (this substantiates my opinion of GM) to 2) The only way to get the proper spark plug torque IS to use anti-seize:
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