front rotor replacement
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front rotor replacement
i need to put new rotors on my 92 f 150 4x4-thought i would have to buy rotors with new hubs-counter guy said i could buy just rotors-said you knock out lugs and separate them and install rotors and new lugs-both of my repair books don't show this--any advice-thanks
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Duluth, MN
Just finished the job myself on my '89 f150. You can buy just the rotors themselves and use the existing hub. Once you take apart the automatic or manual hub assembly, the rotor and hub should slide off. Remove the bearings and seal, then take a hammer and pound out the lugs. Don't be afraid to use a bit of muscle. Slide off the old rotor and slide on the new one.
I had difficulty pounding the lugs back in tight so that the new rotor fit snug against the hub. I tried tightening the lug nuts to pull the hub and rotor together, but I couldn't hold the assembly from spinning while tightening the lugs. My solution was to pound each lug into the hub (w/o rotor) and matchmark them to the specific hole. I then removed the lugs and put on the rotor and then replaced the lugs into their matching hole. With some effort you should get everything to fit snug together. Then reassemble with a new grease seal for each hub. Good luck.
Pat
I had difficulty pounding the lugs back in tight so that the new rotor fit snug against the hub. I tried tightening the lug nuts to pull the hub and rotor together, but I couldn't hold the assembly from spinning while tightening the lugs. My solution was to pound each lug into the hub (w/o rotor) and matchmark them to the specific hole. I then removed the lugs and put on the rotor and then replaced the lugs into their matching hole. With some effort you should get everything to fit snug together. Then reassemble with a new grease seal for each hub. Good luck.
Pat
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Couple more things to try. You can pound the lugs back into place with a hammer and a punch. You can also get a spacer and an impact wrench and use one of the lug nuts to pull the studs through.
Both methods will warp the hell out of the rotor. You'll have to get the cut once they're together. I've never seen anyone who was able to install the studs and not warp the rotor at least a little bit.
Both methods will warp the hell out of the rotor. You'll have to get the cut once they're together. I've never seen anyone who was able to install the studs and not warp the rotor at least a little bit.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Otsego, MN
Yea, the rotors come apart off from the hubs, they look like they are one piece but are not, have a groove angled between the two. Just did entire front and back brakes last fall, 1993 F-150 4x4. As for putting the lugs back into the rotor, I threw them into the freezer for hr or so. This contracts them giving them more clearance, then use washers and lugs to eas them back on, I tried pounding them on at first, but was difficult, hopes around and can damage things. Put on new outer seals, and grease up bearings while in there.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 82
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From: Duluth, MN
I like that freezer idea.... good thinking. Like I said, I pounded them in without the rotor and then matchmarked the lugs to the holes. I then could put the rotor on and pound them in with a hammer and punch without too much difficulty. If the rotor is on a flat surface and the contact surface between the rotor and the hub is uniform and clean, you shouldn't warp the rotor any. After all, all the force is transfered through the lug and into the hub. The rotor won't feel a think until the head of the lug strikes it and you do a last go around with the hammer and punch. Be sure you pound them in an alternating order!
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thanks for all the info-i can use a press at work and have access to a lathe to check rotors when assembled-it will be alot cheaper than replacing hubs-thanks again
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Joined: Jul 2004
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Just a FYI for the guys with the 4X4 F150's built after 5/95. The hub and rotor assy is cheaper than buying just a rotor. Most local parts stores don't stock these but they are available through their warehouses. As an example:Raybestos
Rotor only lists for $137.25, jobber is $72.06...PN 66438
Rotor and hub w/o front ABS lists for $66.57, jobber is $34.95...PN 66676
Rotor and hub w/ front ABS lists for $83.72, jobber is $43.95...PN 66677
Also the wheel seals for this truck are cheaper from Ford than in the aftermarket, such as Chicago Rawhide or National Oil Seals. And the Ford seal comes as a kit per wheel.
Rotor only lists for $137.25, jobber is $72.06...PN 66438
Rotor and hub w/o front ABS lists for $66.57, jobber is $34.95...PN 66676
Rotor and hub w/ front ABS lists for $83.72, jobber is $43.95...PN 66677
Also the wheel seals for this truck are cheaper from Ford than in the aftermarket, such as Chicago Rawhide or National Oil Seals. And the Ford seal comes as a kit per wheel.
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