Sandblasting cost ?
Is one making a decent profit just sandblasting or is the sandblast/ PC shop working too cheap and giving out less than quality work ? I am baffled about the difference in the two bids. I dont throw my money at people, but I also know that people that are losing money , cannot do good work for long. What is the normal price out here for what I am getting bids on ???
Last edited by 7DF250; Aug 7, 2005 at 11:50 PM.
Is one making a decent profit just sandblasting or is the sandblast/ PC shop working too cheap and giving out less than quality work ? I am baffled about the difference in the two bids. I dont throw my money at people, but I also know that people that are losing money , cannot do good work for long. What is the normal price out here for what I am getting bids on ???
On edit 08/12/05
I dropped the bumper off today at this same shop. The guy in the office quoted me 75 bucks for the blast only. which is what am getting, no PC. When I told him of the above paradox, he said he could not imagine who in his shop would have quoted me that price. At least now he knows to watch out for a crumbling cookie in his jar,
yes, and to eliminate existing paint , all rust, and to get down to the clean metal . That way the clean metal will give the primer a good surface to bond to, because the primer is the first coat to go on, and must be bonded well, if the rest of the topcoats are going to stay on .
Is it easy to warp panels? yes, if the blasting operator stays in one area too long , and lets the metal get hot from the friction of the high pressure sand blast hitting it.
Do most people sift and re-use the sand ? yes
Is it a fast enough process to do a whole vehicle at one time and then put a coat of primer on ? . Some SB shops (not diyers) may be able to with large enough equipment and availlable man power. For most people they take it in stages for the sandblasting, like chassis first, removed parts, then body, etc
Whats the minamal horse power and PSI compressor do you need ? The larger the better. 5 hp or better. When blasting , one is just opening up the air hose wide open , if that gives a idea of how much air will be used and that has to be re-produced by the A/C. A 3 hp , 90 psi w/9cfm might even work, but will put a big strain on the air compressor and the user, by increasing the time it takes for the air to build back up, and make it a slow going job. When the A/C has to work too hard , it produces a lot of condensate in the air lines, a no- no for sand blasting. A in-line hose water seperator/filter would be needed to do sand blasting so the sand will not clog up the basting tip with damp sand..
Warning : Sandblasting is dangerous because of the dust particles the user may get in their lungs (and other body parts) if not protected well. The most popular beach looking sand , will have silica in it, which causes silicocis in the lungs , that is bad, bad stuff. Their are a lot of different blasting medias out here to choose from. Each type has its own characteristics that make it more suitable ,for what is to be blasted...
A person needs ample enclosed space (plastic tent) and one they dont mind trashing up. A GOOD dual canister (no paper masks ! ) particulate respirator (fresh air suit is best but big $$$$ ) and the other total body part protection equipment. If one doesnt have the personal safety equipment to SB with, they should leave SB'ing to the big shops and keep themselves from harms way...
To do large parts I think a DIYER is better off just letting a SB shop do it. I invested 90 bucks in a 5 gallon blaster, made a huge mess of my patio, and end up letting a SB shop do it anyway for 75 bucks, because I dont want the mess to deal with. all jmo
Last edited by Greg 79 f150; Aug 13, 2005 at 02:53 PM.
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had brand new rotors coated in galvanize powder coat then regular powder coat for $200
had brand new rotors coated in galvanize powder coat then regular powder coat for $200
Ya but i bet the powdercoat is what you payed for.
i can get a rearend sandblasted for 25 bucks.








