It has a 5.8 and E4OD. Died on me in Wyoming and the ICM and stator in the distributor were replaced. It ran all the way back to KS but ran hot and was low on power. MPG went for 13.7 down to 10. Runs rough. Engine check light is on.

Came home and check the timing and found the spout still taped up with old tape. Pulled the spout and timming was at aprox 1 degree after TDC. Timed engine to 10 degrees BTDC as the book says but check engine light is still on and engine still runs rough.

Took it to a shop near my home and they adjusted the timing a little and cleared the codes and said it was fine. When I picked it up and started it the RPMs seemed to hang in the high range a little long and when it did drop down the truck started running rough again and the check engine light came on again.

Shop took it back and pulled the distributor and found that the stator wires had been smashed during the install in Wyoming and one wire had broken insulation. That was replaced. The codes that are being thrown are ICM and ED? (Engine Diognostic ?). A second ICM was installed. All the wires were run between the distributor, ICM and computer. A new computer was install and it still does the same thing.

Clear all code and if you start it it runs fine. Turn it off and restart it and it runs rough and throws the codes.

Any ideas?

 

When you say it runs rough, Does it also run rough when YOU bring the RPM's up? Or just in idle?

 

Rough kind of all the time just harder to tell from exhaust noise as the RPm's increase. But I can still tell it's not right when I run the RPM's up. I haven't had it on the road to check MPG since we advanced the initial timming to 10 degree BTDC as Chilton says. That might have been some of my running hot and poor MPG problem.

 

You know...I didn't think of it til now...But what about your Catalytic Converter? I had mine clog on an old Couger I had, and it got RED hot, engine ran like crap especially after about 15 minutes of driving.

 

You might want to pull all of the plugs and check them to see if you notice any difference. Don't know what the code problem is all about. Check all the basics; a good ground, plug wires (in the dark), vacuum leaks, electrical connectors (unplug 'em and plug 'em back in). Keep us posted.

 

I don't think it matters how long you run the engine. You can let it set over night and clear the codes. Start it and let it run 15 seconds or drive it around for 30 minutes and it's fine. Doesn't make a difference. But shut it off after 15 seconds or 30 minutes and when you restart it, it throws those two codes and starts to run rough.

 

Put new plugs and plug wires on a little over a month ago when I was getting ready for my summer trips. MPG went from 12 up to 13.7. Was really running good and had a little trouble keeping the tires from chirping with the locker in the back. Had a new fuel filter put in last month. Change oil every 3000 miles. Tranny not due for another service till fall. Cooling system flushed last fall. Try to keep up on all the regular stuff. Old cap and rotor look fine but we replaced that also.

Just don't know why it would run so well the first time you start it then runs so bad the second time you start it and throws an ICM code.

 

Question! if you started it in the morning, could you drive it for as long as you want and it will drive fine untill you shut her off and restart it?

 

Before you do anything else, you need to find out what those codes mean. you can search this site for doing it with a paper clip, or pay about $50 for a code reader off ebay.

 

When it is running rough, what happens when you pull the spout plug? If it runs better, it sounds like you may have some type of communication problem between the PCM and the ICM. I would still check the plugs. I have had new plugs go bad, plus it will tell you whether the cylinder is getting fuel and fire.

cds

 

I beleive so. But have not tested it that way.

 

First of all I'm pretty stressed on this. Have plans to be in Colorado this week and a fellow FTE member has taken vacation to go out and do some trails with me. Just running out of time.

Not a much of an excuse for my bad manners. I want to thank everyone for the help they have offered. Just need to think this through some.

I just can't beleive that a plug, plug wire, cat, or vacume leak would only effect the engine after it is started the second time after codes are cleared. One plug I know was pulled and was a litttle dark in the bottom(idle) but clean and light colored on top (high speed/cruise).

The Ford dealer ship wants to put a third (guess it would be the 4th if you count the original) ICM in the truck. Of course they want me to OK it and pay for it even if it does not fix the problem. And I have told them the two other new ICM's installed did not fix the problem. But the code says there is a ICM problem so it will take more Black Powder than I have on hand to move them from that.

Has anyone had a problem with the after market ICM's talking to the PCM's?

 

These problems never seem to make any sense until you find out what the problem was and trace through the logic. When the ICM's were installed, did they use the dielectric grease that is supposed to be applied to the back of the ICM. I believe there are three male spade type electrical connectors on the top of the ICM. Did one of them get bent trying to install it. The only thing I can think of at the moment that would have anything to do with being hot/cold is the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. The input to the PCM from this sensor tells it when to change from cold start fuel scheduling to normal fuel scheduling. Hang in there!

 

Well the shop I had work on it the second time has a tester and the ICM tested good. They replaced it anyway and gave me the old one. It still had the grease on it. I have it as a spare. The Ford Dealership has replaced this same part so I believe I will now have a second spare as I am sure this one will test OK also. They now want to replace the stator for the third time. I told them to keep that also. Looks like I'll have a bucket load of spare parts.

When I was at the shop I did start the truck and let it run just long enough for the high speed idle to drop. 10 maybe 15 seconds and turned it off. I then started it a second time and the high speed idle seem to hang a little longer and when it came off it started to miss and the check engine light came on. It threw the same two codes. Don't think that was long enough for the temp sensor to do much. But when the mechanic test drove it, it ran fine for 10-15 minutes. Well long enough to get to operating temp.

The post thing is something new though. There is a cradle the ICM sets in. It has cooling fins. I was told that the grease was to aid in transfereing of heat to the cradle for cooling. I do see some detents on that side of the ICM so this may be a good place to look.

Thanks.

 

Well it looks like my Bronco just likes Ford Motorcraft parts. The dealership replace the same parts the other two shops did and it now runs fine. No check engine light.

Thanks everyone for the help.