Fuseable Link Amp's?
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Long island NY
Fuseable Link Amp's?
Hi, the wire on one of the fuseable links coming off the solenoid rotted, decayed whatever to the point of falling off. In a pinch i just wire nutted the wires together and bypassed the fuseable link to get home. Im here now with a new fuse setup, but what amp fuse should it be? I put a 20 amp in, and when i put the headlights on it blows the fuse. The wire is red and black, and the fuseable link was green colorerd.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Posting Guru
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From: Niceville, FL.
My Ford shop manual doesn't list amperage ratings for Fuse Links, only the wire gauge:
Green =14 ga., Orange = 16 ga., Yellow = 17 ga., Red = 18 ga. and Blue = 20 ga.
All based on 9 +/- 1/2" long sections. Fuse links use special Hypalon insulation that won't catch fire due to heat. Do not use regular plastic insulated wire. Use crimp-on butt splices and suitable crimping tool to connect to regular wires (pliers won't make a satisfactory crimp).
Green =14 ga., Orange = 16 ga., Yellow = 17 ga., Red = 18 ga. and Blue = 20 ga.
All based on 9 +/- 1/2" long sections. Fuse links use special Hypalon insulation that won't catch fire due to heat. Do not use regular plastic insulated wire. Use crimp-on butt splices and suitable crimping tool to connect to regular wires (pliers won't make a satisfactory crimp).
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
You should really just replace the link with another one of the same color. Generally you can match the color of the link up with the same amp rated color of fuse. In this case green would be a 30 amp fusible link, so a 30 amp fuse should do the trick.
I would still recommend replacing with an actual fusible link. I would recommend going one step further than using butt connectors, and actually solder and shrink-tube the new link in. It makes for a much better connection, and it's water-proof. Not to mention it looks so much nicer.
I would still recommend replacing with an actual fusible link. I would recommend going one step further than using butt connectors, and actually solder and shrink-tube the new link in. It makes for a much better connection, and it's water-proof. Not to mention it looks so much nicer.
Last edited by RR4E; Jul 31, 2005 at 03:49 PM.
Moderator
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by RyanMiller
Just a question, Why is a fuseable link better than a regular spade fuse? I think it would be easier to replace a fuse than re wire a section
Ford and other makes do use spade fuses now, along with fusible links. The fuses they use now are the maxi fuses, with very large amp ratings. Most Fords now have an underhood fuse box along with the underdash fuse box.
I to would also recommend you just go to the store and buy a replacement link. It all has to do with time and heat, and the fusible link is more tolerant of small overloads of short duration than a fuse is.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Interestingly enough, older versions of Fords used fuses, rather than links.(I've owned several, pre 59 to 72 it was very common....)
I'm more of a fan of the links as they do protect better. Granted, easier to change a fuse, but fuses don't handle the vibrations of the engine and the road as well as a wire does. A wire has more length, and will handle bumps with ease in comparison, and that's where it really fails.
That being said, I still recommend solder and shrink-tube, vs crimp connectors.
Some do like the crimp style and will argue it to death on this forum. I have always used a proper crimping tool, and am very patient with electrical work, and have always had much better success with solder and shrink-tube. It's waterproof, the connection is as solid as it can be, and can only break with some severe bending.
Crimp connections can vibrate loose. Even using a proper tool for the job.
I'm more of a fan of the links as they do protect better. Granted, easier to change a fuse, but fuses don't handle the vibrations of the engine and the road as well as a wire does. A wire has more length, and will handle bumps with ease in comparison, and that's where it really fails.
That being said, I still recommend solder and shrink-tube, vs crimp connectors.
Some do like the crimp style and will argue it to death on this forum. I have always used a proper crimping tool, and am very patient with electrical work, and have always had much better success with solder and shrink-tube. It's waterproof, the connection is as solid as it can be, and can only break with some severe bending.
Crimp connections can vibrate loose. Even using a proper tool for the job.
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"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Mifflin, PA
Ford (in their Body builder lit) recommends CRIMP connectors of th uninsulated variety, then solder, and cover with dual wall heat shrink (the kind with the adheasive inside) as the optimum splice.
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Posting Guru
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From: Niceville, FL.
All depends on the crimping tool. The el-cheapo's won't do. Crimp connections are used on jet aircraft wiring- no soldering allowed. A good crimper used properly actually pressure welds the wire to the connector. Shrink tubing is good.