coolant overflow won't stop
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New User
Joined: Jul 2005
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coolant overflow won't stop
i have an 1981 ford pickup with a 351M and i just got it running right...so i thought anyways it has a problem with it spitting out coolant only when the engine is under load or shut off...it also has alot of foam in the coolant too...but it dont have any leaks and i just replaced the radiator cap and it didnt help at all..i have never had this happen to me before so i dont really know what is going on....if anyone knows let me know please...
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Could be a bad water pump, or a rad cap, as well. Best bet is to pressure test your cap and rad. Foam is generally an indication of air being introduced to the system, and a head gasket could be the culprit, some leak internally, so check your oil dipstick for white colored oil before starting.(means coolant is getting into the crank-case)
If the pump is gone, not all leak, but usually do from the wheep-hole on the bottom side of them. Some pumps just start to cavitate, and thus create the foam.
A weak cap will not hold pressure, and will release and allow the over-flow to spill out, and will also show foam, as it will allow the pump to cavititate. Part of the water pump being able to do it's job is to have actual system pressure to work with.
I'd start with the rad cap, and work back from there. It's the cheapest part, and the easiest to remove. Thermostat next, and then water pump. If those fail, head gaskets are likely up.
If no water in the oil, and no visible signs of leakage around the head gasket area, a plugged rad might also be the problem, or a weak hose. If your hoses feel soft, and collapse easily under hand pressure, they will do the same while under load on the engine. A collapsed rad hose is a sure fire way of over-heating when under load, and it will happen when you least need it to.
If the pump is gone, not all leak, but usually do from the wheep-hole on the bottom side of them. Some pumps just start to cavitate, and thus create the foam.
A weak cap will not hold pressure, and will release and allow the over-flow to spill out, and will also show foam, as it will allow the pump to cavititate. Part of the water pump being able to do it's job is to have actual system pressure to work with.
I'd start with the rad cap, and work back from there. It's the cheapest part, and the easiest to remove. Thermostat next, and then water pump. If those fail, head gaskets are likely up.
If no water in the oil, and no visible signs of leakage around the head gasket area, a plugged rad might also be the problem, or a weak hose. If your hoses feel soft, and collapse easily under hand pressure, they will do the same while under load on the engine. A collapsed rad hose is a sure fire way of over-heating when under load, and it will happen when you least need it to.
