I've searched the forum and didn't find anything that would help enhance the brightness of my back-up lights. I'm going to install a set of fog lights later on so that I'll have better lighting during trailer hook-ups, but I need something to replace the existing stock back-up lights. Is it possible to have a brighter bulb (halogen?) without over taxing the stock wiring???

 

Buy these at J.C. Whitney. Type Part # in Search box.
50-Watt Back-Up Bulb, Replaces Back-up Bulbs # 3057, 2356, 2456 or 3156 Pair ZX124358U $14.99

 

Hook the fog lights up to a relay and the current backup light circuit.

 

I hooked up a 4" basic flood light under the bumper beside the receiver. I used a relay and breaker direct off the battery powered by a dash switch I installed. Provides plenty of what you need. You could also go to ledlightmuseum.com and replace your bulbs with brighter LEDs. I'm going to replace all my marker lights and such with them.

You can tap into the trailer harness for reverse lights but you'd have to be in reverse to light it up. A little dangerous when standing between the trailer and bumper. I'd recommend against this method, too tempting....
(Honey, just hold the brake)

Just wire a seperate switch with a small flood.
I'll put pics in my gallery tomorrow when I get back from my fishin' trip.
To start with, run a 12 gauge from your fender well to your receiver, with about a foot of slack to use if need be. I used outdoor 12/3 that can be buried but indoor 12/2 will work ok as long as it has the cover on it. Run it through the openings in the bottom of the frame. Make that a 12 gauge wire, not shotgun.
Get a 30 amp relay with base and breaker (or fuse) and hook them up, switch on dash controlling the relay. Do your relay switch power lead (20 gauge is fine) to constant power so you can use the light without the key on.

Hope this helps!

Steve...

 

I too wanted brighter lights but haven't gotten around to putting them in. I think a good way is to have a dash switch with either (Auto-Off-On) or just (Auto-On). "Auto" part of switch is hooked to its own relay that closes when reverse lights come on. "On" relay is hooked to 12V and is ready any time the switch is activated (might be a way to alarm tailgaters, too). I was also going to parallel hook the bed light and other reverse lights to my "on" relay so it lights up as much as possible to the rear. (you could do the red ones, too, with big enough wires and relay)

Rather than fooling with all of these items, I was also tempted by Walmarts low-profile remote controlled fog lights. They were about 40 bucks and you wouldn't have to run a switch, I guess, because they are radio controlled like an fob.

 

I was really interested in having some extra light.. I wanted the lights to come on without me hitting a switch but then i started to think about the whole trailer hook up thing.. So i bought 2 rectangle tractor head lamps one for each side and ran it to the batter and a 12v switch on the dash.. Works great.. I mounted the lights kinda up under the truck and pointed them on a downward angle so that just looking at the truck you cant see them...but when you turn them on BAMMM... it works good... i put the switch right next to my idle up switch seems to work good.. Now i can put them on as i please.. ..

ryan

 

Did you check out the White Night lights by Cruiser? They work great! Mounts right to the receiver tube splice right into the factory wires.

 

Steve,
Since my 05 has the 4 aux switches, can I just run a 12 gauge wire off of the factory wire???

I'm going to install the back lights in addition to the brighter back-up lites.

Thanks for everyones comments.

 

They come with a switch that will allow the lights to work automatically with the reverse lights or you can turn them on manually. I decided not to hook up the auto option and go manual only.

I used my Aux # 4 upfitter switch which is fused for 10 amps. Since the lights use a relay, only minimal power is needed to turn them on.

They are very, very bright.

http://www.truckcustomizers.com/prod...PIA269.8A.html

 

No, don't do that. You need to run that switch to a relay, run the 12 gauge off that. It's kinda' like a starter. Your key throws power to a smaller wire which closes a circuit in the relay allowing power to flow through the heavier wire.
You can (probably will) burn up the smaller wire if you wire it direct.

Like Gloveman said, his is already fused, but you'll need a 30a fuse in the big wire too. I went with an el cheapo light because I didn't want to break an expensive PIAA.

 

The output of Aux switch #4 is fused and rated for a 10amp draw. 2 55W flood lights are will draw aprox. 9amps. The relays, and fuses are already built into the upfitter switches.

This is exactly what I did. I purchased a pair of 55w KC flood lights from ORW and mounted them under the reciever cross member. Works great.

 

Just got back from Wallyworld and they had a set of CHEAP fog lights for about $15-$20. My company sells relays so I shouldn't have a tough time getting a "sample". I know this is another stupid question, but where do you find the factory literature that provides their guidance on how to install items on the upfitter switches? I'm planning on using Steve's info, but I think its funny that I have to ask someone on this forum for help vs Ford providing instructions in their owners manual.

 

The directions are in my manual.

Anyway, the wires are up and behind the fuse box. They are capped with small molded ends. If your manual does not have the information on which wire is which, you will need to use a volt meter to determine which wire goes with which switch. I think, from memory, the black wire with an orange stripe is Aux 4 which is fused for 10 amps, more than enough to throw your relay.

Good luck.

 

What page in the owners manual will I find the info on the switches?

 

I am going to assume that you have looked and can not find the page in the Index, or that your manual is missing a few pages, or that the earlier manuals left this item out.

In my 2006 Ford F250 Manual the upfitter switches are explained on page 64