I am courious, did the clusters look the same? The same connectors? Did the speedometers lok the same? You might try what Dseven said about swapping the 92 speedo into the 94 cluster and retry it.

 

I`ve got a 92` F150 XLT supercab 2wd, without a tach cluster. was it an option to get a tach? If I find a cluster with a tach (from a salvage yard or e-bay) what years should work?

Right now the left side of the cluster`s needles are not illuminating but behind them the numbers are illuminated,what lights up the needles?

any help is greatly appreciated, I`m still getting familiar with the truck; bought it for a song with a bad motor. I`ve done a motor swap, trans rebuild, wheels and tires, and cleaned the hell out of it. I work on Beemers for a living, so working on the truck is a little unfamiliar.
1 more question........how come there seems to be so many different ride heights for my style truck, I see some very low (not slammed) and others almost look 4wd. I always stop to check them out,and it doesn`t look if they`ve been modified;was it a option or different package that determines your ride height?

Sorry for all the questions.....I`m a newbie, but I learn fast

 

I had a good speedo and wanted a tach. The ABS and charging system were wired differently enough to cause an ABS error and the charging system shut down.

 

XFACTOR, any 92-96 F-150 Cluster will interchange. The ride heights can be caused by saggy springs. Also, I think Ford did offer a bigger tire size package...that's probably it too.

 

Does anyone know if there is another way to do this kind of recalibration. I am thinking of building a custom gauge cluster and loosing the electronic odometer. Also I changed mine this way for the larger tires, but did not change anything for the new 4.56 gears. Should I have?

 

I got my "new" (from eBay) cluster this afternoon, and did the operation this evening. With the obligatory scratches and munged thumbnails, it was pretty straight-forward, and I'm now happy with-tach!

Some notes for anyone else getting ready to do this:

* Take note of what the instruments in your old cluster are reading before you take it out (fuel level, voltage, etc) - I wish I had done this, so I could feel more confident that the new ones are "accurate"

* Check all of the bulbs in the new cluster before installing it - pop them out and put 12V across them. I found two blown ones in my "new" cluster, and one that worked but was a bit cloudy. Cleaning the contacts probably wouldn't hurt too.

* I found out (the hard way) that it's easier to dismantle the old cluster while it's still inside the dash, and assemble the new one in there too. If you take the instruments out, you can get at the tabs on the two large electrical connectors from the inside, which makes them a whole lot easier to get off. The only tricky part is the two screws at the top of the clear plastic front, but a little 1/4" ratchet and 7/32 socket solved that.

* I took the fuel tank selector switch off the back of the cowl (is that the right word?) and plugged it back into its connector, so I could do all of the testing before putting everything back together.