Engine swap issues
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From: CT
Engine swap issues
I recently swaped an inline 6 for a 351w in my 93 F150. The harness i had for the engine was from an 89 so i had quite a bit of wiring to do. I'm itching to get this truck started so today I hooked up the batt and turned the key to the on positionpraying that atleast something would happen...minus a huge electrical fire, the fuel pump kicked on like it should, but they wouldn't shut off untill i turned the key off, is this a bad thing? Normally they kick on for a few seconds then shut off. The transmission isn't hooked up yet so I cant see if it fires. Also, the Fuel Reset light is on. I'm running mass air and i'm using an A9L computer if that makes a difference.
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From: Virginia
Well, the pumps usually don't keep running if there is not a signal from the distributor telling the computer the engine is running. But I would not worry about it until later. You still have the fuel safety shut-off going to the pumps in case you are in an accident with it.
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From: Virginia
Yes, it may be. I think what I would do is get everything hooked up, and then try to pull codes from the computer to see what you get. If there are any major problems, the computer will see it and give you a code. You can then investigate the wiring or whatever could be wrong. You may get a few codes you can ignore, like under temp codes or something.
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From: CT
Alright, she fired up, but, will not stay running.
I tried grounding out the STI plug and the check engine light does not flash. I'm going to try throwing a code scanner on it. The engine is out of an 89 F350, so is the harness. Probing the IAC power lead gives me 5 volts. Which is only half the required volts needed, does this mean a bad IAC or i messed up on the wiring somewhere? It starts right up then immediatly dies, holding the throttle open a hair will keep it going.
I tried grounding out the STI plug and the check engine light does not flash. I'm going to try throwing a code scanner on it. The engine is out of an 89 F350, so is the harness. Probing the IAC power lead gives me 5 volts. Which is only half the required volts needed, does this mean a bad IAC or i messed up on the wiring somewhere? It starts right up then immediatly dies, holding the throttle open a hair will keep it going.
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From: Virginia
Try to pull some codes. Here's how to do it.
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html#TOP
It will be hard to read the IAC voltage, since the computer modulates the voltage up and down.
http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html#TOP
Probing the IAC power lead gives me 5 volts. Which is only half the required volts needed, does this mean a bad IAC
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From: CT
I read tho that when probing i SHOULD have atleast 10.5 volts at the IAC, i'm going to try hardwiring it to the batt and see if that keeps the truck running, atleast at startup. I Should be getting a code scanner from a friend tomorrow, i'll give that a shot, not sure why the dash light isn't blinking. I grounded the STI plug and turn the key on and nothing happened, no solenoids clicked like mentioned. Also noticed a hissing sound comming from the back of the intake when the key is on with the fuel pumps whirring away, not sure where it was comming from.
