Shocks replacement
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Shocks replacement
Geez I thought it would be easy to replace the shocks on my 00 4x4 F-150. Was a wrong or maybe I just don't get it.
I got the front shocks off, and can get the front shock up into the top bracket hole, and here is where I get stuck. There doesn't seem to be enough room to put the bottom of the shock into the lower bracket. The lower control arm blocks access. I have tried a floor jack in moving the frame up and down but still can't get it lined up. Another problem is the top bushings... putting them on the bolt stud doesn't leave enough exposed threads to start the nut. The only thing I can think of here is that the shock needs to be weighted to compress the lower bushing, but I haven't gotten to that yet as I haven't been able to get the bottom bracket bolted.
The rear shocks... how in the world to you get the top bracket nut off?? It is hidden behind the frame and when I put a socket on it the entire shock shaft turns...
Any words of wisdom on something I thought would be easy?
THanks!
I got the front shocks off, and can get the front shock up into the top bracket hole, and here is where I get stuck. There doesn't seem to be enough room to put the bottom of the shock into the lower bracket. The lower control arm blocks access. I have tried a floor jack in moving the frame up and down but still can't get it lined up. Another problem is the top bushings... putting them on the bolt stud doesn't leave enough exposed threads to start the nut. The only thing I can think of here is that the shock needs to be weighted to compress the lower bushing, but I haven't gotten to that yet as I haven't been able to get the bottom bracket bolted.
The rear shocks... how in the world to you get the top bracket nut off?? It is hidden behind the frame and when I put a socket on it the entire shock shaft turns...
Any words of wisdom on something I thought would be easy?
THanks!
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BTW, the old shocks are Bilsteins and the new ones are Bilsteins. I read somewhere that you need an allen wrench and an offset open end for taking the rear shocks off. Where does the allen wrench fit into the picture?
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easier than it looks I just replaced all mine last week. The first thing is the brakets where the bottoms line up on both the front and rear have to be widened to put the bottom of the shock back in (big hammer and punch does this very easy).
Second there is a cut out above the frame for the back upper shocks it takes a whench to hold the shock from turning and a deep well socket to turn the nut off, there is not much room and it is a slow process unless you have air, I did not have air.
the front install the the top of the shock first, and after widening the bottom bracket install the bottomyou have to play with it alittle but the new shock will go in just like the old shock came out. to get the nut on the top of the shock (NEW) jack up the lower control arm and it will squeeze the or forcr the shock upwords and you can install the nut.
I had to use a alighnment punch to get the bottom of all four shocks lined up so the bolts can go in.
Lance
Second there is a cut out above the frame for the back upper shocks it takes a whench to hold the shock from turning and a deep well socket to turn the nut off, there is not much room and it is a slow process unless you have air, I did not have air.
the front install the the top of the shock first, and after widening the bottom bracket install the bottomyou have to play with it alittle but the new shock will go in just like the old shock came out. to get the nut on the top of the shock (NEW) jack up the lower control arm and it will squeeze the or forcr the shock upwords and you can install the nut.
I had to use a alighnment punch to get the bottom of all four shocks lined up so the bolts can go in.
Lance
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Thanks Lance. Got the front shocks on.. bending out the lower clamp was the trick, it didn't take much.
I am working on the rear. I found out that with Bilstens, I have to use an allen wrench to fit into a hole at the top of the shock then turn a wrench to loosen the bolt. A miserably slow process so far. The exposed bolt stud is at least an inch and the only way to turn the wrench is to go through the cut out in the frame with the open end 11/16 wrench turn a bit while holding the allen, flip the wrench over, turn a bit more... and on and on. This will take an hour or more I think. Plus the bolt stud is dirty and hard to turn anyway even with WD40 on it. I don't see anyway around this slow process. The allen wrench is in the way of any deep socket that I could put on it so I guess I am stuck with this tedious task unless someone has an idea.
Thanks again.
I am working on the rear. I found out that with Bilstens, I have to use an allen wrench to fit into a hole at the top of the shock then turn a wrench to loosen the bolt. A miserably slow process so far. The exposed bolt stud is at least an inch and the only way to turn the wrench is to go through the cut out in the frame with the open end 11/16 wrench turn a bit while holding the allen, flip the wrench over, turn a bit more... and on and on. This will take an hour or more I think. Plus the bolt stud is dirty and hard to turn anyway even with WD40 on it. I don't see anyway around this slow process. The allen wrench is in the way of any deep socket that I could put on it so I guess I am stuck with this tedious task unless someone has an idea.
Thanks again.
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Thanks again Lance, I had not thought that through and an allen on a rachet would be great. I tried turning the short handled allen (about a 3 inch handle) and could not get any leverage on it without digging it into the palm of my hand. I had given up this afternoon and was ready to take it to the shop. Also, I think lubing the dinkens out of the exposed bolt will help too as it is a tough turn in tight quarters.Will give it another try on Tuesday.
Replacing the shocks actually came out of one of the Bilsteins's going bad, then, without knowing it was siezed, went down a bumpy road and split the upper bracket on the right front. That will be a job in itself. Will have to heat the bracket some to bend it back into place and weld down the split.
Replacing the shocks actually came out of one of the Bilsteins's going bad, then, without knowing it was siezed, went down a bumpy road and split the upper bracket on the right front. That will be a job in itself. Will have to heat the bracket some to bend it back into place and weld down the split.
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: BC, Canada
The top nuts on the rear shocks are a bit easier to access if you remove the bottom bolts first and then swing the shock away from the axle housing. It just gives you a bit more room to work.
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From: Southeast FLA
FWIW, on my fronts (new GR-2's) I had that issue of them not fitting in the bottom, too. How frustrating is it that we all have the problem (maybe 4x4 only?), but the shock makers won't redesign the shock bases to fit in to where they are supposed to?
Anyway, I used a table-mounted stone-wheel to ground off a little of the width of each bottom to make them fit.
The rears will be next, then I'm going to see about putting on some poly bushings on the front swaybar.
Anyway, I used a table-mounted stone-wheel to ground off a little of the width of each bottom to make them fit.
The rears will be next, then I'm going to see about putting on some poly bushings on the front swaybar.
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From: hallville
I have a 4x4 sc2002 and just changed my front shocks....very easily.Install the bottom first.used a hammer and punch to set the bottom in the tight lower bracket...thaen slid bolt in and callapse the shock and istall the top portion...5 min.Good luck,but I don't think you have to spread anything if you install bottom first.The old one came out of there didn't it???
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The problem was not removing the old one for me it was reinstalling the four shocks becuase when you bolt the bottoms in it draws the bracket closer. so to install as you said use a punch and bent the bracket back a bit then slide the bottom bracket right in wala.
I think we said the same thing just different.
Lance
I think we said the same thing just different.
Lance
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From: Southeast FLA
Well, the old ones came out - yes - but: they were a tight fit, and upon measurement, they were actually less-wide than the new ones. How did the get less wide? I don't know if Ford made them that way, or if they wore away due to the friction (there was obvious signs of wear on nearly all edges of the two sides).
So, based on my observation, the old ones pulled out were less wide, and the new ones definately did not fit. Once I ground a bit off of each side I could get each shock base down just enough to use a punch to finally draw them down and align them with the bolt holes, but it could not have been done (on mine) (with the GR-2 shocks) without the grinding (or, i guess, widening the original tabs, which I didn't want to do as I wasn't sure it wasn't a Noleen shock problem as opposed to a ford problem).
Best,
Gamma
Dave
So, based on my observation, the old ones pulled out were less wide, and the new ones definately did not fit. Once I ground a bit off of each side I could get each shock base down just enough to use a punch to finally draw them down and align them with the bolt holes, but it could not have been done (on mine) (with the GR-2 shocks) without the grinding (or, i guess, widening the original tabs, which I didn't want to do as I wasn't sure it wasn't a Noleen shock problem as opposed to a ford problem).
Best,
Gamma
Dave