Electricity bites!
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 97
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From: Rocksprings
Electricity bites!
get this one:
my left brake light and turning indicator work fine. the rite side indicator works fine BUT the brake light doesn't shine on the rite.
i figure its the dad-gum turn signal controller up in the steering wheel. anyone know where to get the parts for the turn signal stuff for a 59 F100?
if i am off base on what the problem is, please point me to other possibilities!!
thanks,
sb
my left brake light and turning indicator work fine. the rite side indicator works fine BUT the brake light doesn't shine on the rite.
i figure its the dad-gum turn signal controller up in the steering wheel. anyone know where to get the parts for the turn signal stuff for a 59 F100?
if i am off base on what the problem is, please point me to other possibilities!!
thanks,
sb
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 5
From: Meade, KS
Lots of possibilities...
Check the bulb...it may be that the filament for the brake light is out, but the filament for the indicator is fine.
Next check for shorts from the brake light switch out to the brake light on the rt side.
Those are a lot more likely and easier to fix than tearing into the column.
Check the bulb...it may be that the filament for the brake light is out, but the filament for the indicator is fine.
Next check for shorts from the brake light switch out to the brake light on the rt side.
Those are a lot more likely and easier to fix than tearing into the column.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 910
Likes: 4
From: Maryland
After you check the bulb and the ground at the rear light. You can check the solid Green wire at the switch with a test light to see if it is working their.
(note not the green wire with the white stripe)
(note not the green wire with the white stripe)
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Rocksprings
i should have been more clear, i have voltage @ the column. the green wire when disconnected has voltage when the brake pedal is hit, but when hooked up the voltage drops. in my experience with DC this indicates a poor connection or corrosion.
if i switch the yellow and green wires, i can make the left turn signal/brake light up the right side. (the rite will light up the indicator on the left when switched, but still no brake lite) so there is nothing wrong from the firewall back to the bulb.
if i jump from the brake light switch to the green wire i have lights on both sides, but of course, the indicator won't 'overcome' the right side jump and i cant have brakes and turn indicator. (at least on the rite side)
btw, the brake and turn signal filaments are the same one. the tail is the low watt filament and the brake/ts is the bright one.
that probably isn't clearer. sorry for the long post.
if i switch the yellow and green wires, i can make the left turn signal/brake light up the right side. (the rite will light up the indicator on the left when switched, but still no brake lite) so there is nothing wrong from the firewall back to the bulb.
if i jump from the brake light switch to the green wire i have lights on both sides, but of course, the indicator won't 'overcome' the right side jump and i cant have brakes and turn indicator. (at least on the rite side)
btw, the brake and turn signal filaments are the same one. the tail is the low watt filament and the brake/ts is the bright one.
that probably isn't clearer. sorry for the long post.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Sean -
My Shop Manual is for a 56 and I have to assume that the 12V wiring didn't change much between 56 and 59. If you have a 59 Shop Manual, you could check my logic here.
In studying the wiring diagram for the turn signals, I notice that the signal for the brake light goes from the brake switch thru the turn switch on its way to the rear lights.
IF the turn switch contacts were corroded, the brake signal could be broken with the turn switch in the neutral position. This condition would also act like a corroded contact that you mentioned. It also explains why the brake lights worked on both sides when you jumped the turn signal connection as you did.
Maybe just a spray of contact cleaner and working the switch a bit could solve your problems without having to disassemble the switch. But I'm not familiar with how easy/hard access might be, since I don't have a stock column or turn switch.
I sympathise with you here. I have had to become intimately familiar with this wire diagram myself to track various problems before.
Hope that helps...
My Shop Manual is for a 56 and I have to assume that the 12V wiring didn't change much between 56 and 59. If you have a 59 Shop Manual, you could check my logic here.
In studying the wiring diagram for the turn signals, I notice that the signal for the brake light goes from the brake switch thru the turn switch on its way to the rear lights.
IF the turn switch contacts were corroded, the brake signal could be broken with the turn switch in the neutral position. This condition would also act like a corroded contact that you mentioned. It also explains why the brake lights worked on both sides when you jumped the turn signal connection as you did.
Maybe just a spray of contact cleaner and working the switch a bit could solve your problems without having to disassemble the switch. But I'm not familiar with how easy/hard access might be, since I don't have a stock column or turn switch.
I sympathise with you here. I have had to become intimately familiar with this wire diagram myself to track various problems before.
Hope that helps...
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Rocksprings
fixed
i hate electricity, but i love old cars/trucks.
i removed the switch from beneath the steering wheel, and it has TABS on it to take it apart! try that on your new truck! i took it apart, and SPROING! out went the springs. (of course!)
after searching for and finding the bits and pieces, i saw that the sliders in the switch looked gooey and nasty...kinda' like a wet corroded battery post. so, a little electrical cleaner and some curse words as i dropped the springs at least 4 more times, i now have correctly functioning lights. passed inspection and kept the old ford on the road!
btw, i just made a 400 mile round trip in the old ford, and man is it time for me to get the seat redone! it was fun anyway, watching the kids in the cars point @ my old truck!
sb
i removed the switch from beneath the steering wheel, and it has TABS on it to take it apart! try that on your new truck! i took it apart, and SPROING! out went the springs. (of course!)
after searching for and finding the bits and pieces, i saw that the sliders in the switch looked gooey and nasty...kinda' like a wet corroded battery post. so, a little electrical cleaner and some curse words as i dropped the springs at least 4 more times, i now have correctly functioning lights. passed inspection and kept the old ford on the road!
btw, i just made a 400 mile round trip in the old ford, and man is it time for me to get the seat redone! it was fun anyway, watching the kids in the cars point @ my old truck!
sb
