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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 10:53 AM
  #16  
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I installed the performer rmp intake and 670 holley carb. I did install a spacer too. All i did was change the inatake and carb, nothing else. and yeah basically no power when given a little more gas than usual. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 11:00 AM
  #17  
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Run the engine up to TDC and pull the dist. cap to see how it alines with the #1 firing postion.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 11:10 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by bertha66
Run the engine up to TDC and pull the dist. cap to see how it alines with the #1 firing postion.

My thoughts exactly! I am thinking that you could be off just a tooth...which would cause that effect. Also, as simple as it sounds of putting in a dizzy, on the FE (at least all my experience) has proved to be a bit tough at times. Taking multiple times to get it right.

 
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 11:55 AM
  #19  
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ok cool, that was acctually my next step, thanks alot guys, ill keep you all posted!
 
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 06:41 PM
  #20  
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What did your mechanic say? If he is worth returning too he should have been able to tell you what is going on.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 09:17 PM
  #21  
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I am beginning to realize that my mechanic is not worth returning too, so I'll let everyone know in a couple days once I get it back in my hands!
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:30 PM
  #22  
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OKAY! So, I know have the timing right on. However....when I did a compression test, I found out that I have ZERO compression in my number 3 cylinder. I'm pretty sure that it's been like that for awhile though. Unless somehow I burnt the valve when I started it up the first time...any ideas on that?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:48 PM
  #23  
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What were the numbers on the other cylinders ?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:17 PM
  #24  
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Ah damn, I forget now, I want to say that they were either 118 or 128, which one sounds right? They all pretty much were where they were supposed to be.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 11:34 PM
  #25  
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Well at least the other cylinders are in good shape. Makes me think it is just a simple valve job.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 12:45 AM
  #26  
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Diagnosing the problem of the engine backfire

1. First pull off one spark plug wire at the distributor (be carfull not to trap wire on the fan belts or fan blade).

2. Start your engine, rev engine and check of backfire.

3. Turn off engine.

4. Place the spark plug wire back on distributor cap.

5. Continue this procedure one spark plug wire at a time working in a clockwise order on the distributor cap.

When you notice that the engine does not backfire, turn off engine and trace the spark plug wire back to the spark plug on head. You know have located what cylinder is backfiring and on cylinder head side.


Next step, pull the valve cover off the cylinder head where the backfire occured. Inspect the push rod on the cylinder you have located as the source of the backfire (make sure the push rods are not bent). Replace pushrod if bent,

if the push rod is not bent continue to the next step.

Next step, Pull coil wire off the coil on engine or coil wire off the distributor cap. Crank engine and inspect that rocker arms and valves are moving up and down correctly and that the pushrod are not bent.

Continue to https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...le_Secret.html
 
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