When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I want to fill in the cowl vent on my 56. I plan to use the vent cover itself. Before I tackle this, I wanted to pick the collective brains here on tricks for how to do it.
The gap between the edge of the vent and the cowl opening is between 3/16-1/4 inch, which seems a lot to fill, especially with matching the compound shape.
I used the cowl vent as the filler. Just bend the sheet metal back from the outer edges and remove it from the assy then use a dolly and hammer to get the edges somewhat flat except I can't seem to remember but I think you will leave the front edge at about a 90 deg anglel then hold it in place with a magnet or whatever you have and start the tack welding.
Randy,
I haven't done this yet, or sure that I will, however I was planning on using some 1/8" or 3/16" round stock as filler for the seem. Should be a fairly easy patch, considering your fab skills.
Mike
I welded a piece of round stock all the way around the piece, that fills the gap nicely. I left the piece laying on top of the war wagon and everytime I would walk in the shop I'd weld a couple of inches, got a continuous weld with no warp. Bonus hint! Welded a couple of 3'' nails vertically onto the piece to help position it while welding it into the cowl, 'way easier than trying to hold it.
I welded a piece of round stock around the outside of the piece, filled the gap quite nicely. I left it on top of the war wagon and welded a little whenever I went into the shop, got a continuous weld with warpage. Bonus tip!! I welded 2 3'' nails vertically onto the piece and used them as handles to hold the piece while tacking it in place, cut them off after the piece welded in.
I welded a piece of round stock around the outside of the piece, filled the gap quite nicely. I left it on top of the war wagon and welded a little whenever I went into the shop, got a continuous weld with warpage. Bonus tip!! I welded 2 3'' nails vertically onto the piece and used them as handles to hold the piece while tacking it in place, cut them off after the piece welded in.
Man knows his stuff! I like using a set of welders magnets (triangle shaped strong magnets you can pick up inexpensively at Northern Tools or Harbor freight) to hold my patches in place since they will hold the piece(s) perfectly flush until you have them solidly attached. You'll find dozens of other uses for them as well, just don't get them near your watch or cell phone!
Chuck - Your description is what I was thinking of trying. I have a pretty rusted vent that I want to unwrap to see how that goes. I thought that if I could use the folded metal to fill the gap, I could minimize the amount of filler I have use later, and the patch would conform to the cab shape pretty well, although the patch will be pretty thin. The vertical fill at the front of the cowl might be easier if it is parent material to the patch also. I would probably have to add some material there to get to the bottom of that vertical wall.
Mike, Tim - I considered filling the gap with rod (or 3/16 fuel line), but don't trust my welding skills to attach thick and thin pieces well. Plus, there will be more body filler required later, right? What about the vertical area? Was that a fill with rod? The good part about that way is that the patch would include the vent's back structure and would be really stout. I might test the fuel line idea as a filler to keep the thicknesses close.
AX - Yes, I have magnets. They work well, especially when joining flat sections. How to use them on the curved part of the cowl (under the windshield) seems a bit problematic.
Keith, 49 and AX - I was trying to avoid 3-page thread of opinions. I realize that there will be folks on both sides of this idea. I haven't decided finally whether to do it or not. The look is unquestionably better to me and fits the overall look I have been working towards. I plan to weld all the cab seams flush and fill the louvered heater intake panel also. Plus, I need to do something with the gas filler area. I'm even considering massaging the drip rail. The vent hasn't proven much cooling help over two summers. Basically, it is easier to leave it there, but not of much functional use. With everything else on the cab smoothed. the vent might look a little out of place.
As for technique, I have had good luck welding even very thin (.020) sheet metal without distortion, as long as the pieces are matched well for thickness and I go slow enough to minimize heat buildup. I am now thinking of trying both techniques mentioned on my practice piece to see which might be preferred.
I'd have to do it like I did the dash when I filled the glove compartment and ash tray. Make a new panel that fit the opening edge to edge and weld it in. It's not that complex a shape to form.
Cool ideas Randy. I like the air on a cool day from the cowl vent. Looks cools from the front also. The drip rails would be interesting. I liked Mike's truck we saw at the Canyon Crusie. Was that the look you were trying for?
PS. I talked with Steve on the ECU and replied back to you, Not sure if you pick up your emails at home on the weekend. I also included Larry.