Oil Pressure
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Hawaii
Oil Pressure
Hey, howzit going! I'm undergoing a project this summer... Im installing a Mitsu TD05-12B Turbo into my 94 3.0L Aerostar. I have it pretty much figured out and ready for action, I just have one little problem.... I'm tapping the oil directly from the oil filter spout. Im using a perma-cool oil cooler kit, so im running the lines to the oil cooler to turbo back and back into the motor. I was wondering if this setup has enough pressure to make it back to the motor with no problem. Right now the gauge on my instrument cluster says my oil pressure stays between M & A in the word (Norm*al). Isn't that a good level / kinda high, being a good thing and possible?!? But, I was wondering if I need a external oil pump to make it back to the motor. Hit me back up, if can.
Much Mahalo & Aloha!
Much Mahalo & Aloha!
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
The "Oil gauge" in the Aerostar series and many other Ferd products is an "Idiot" gauge. A simple oil sender switch on/off and an incircuit resistor on the dash panel circuit board.
Switch closes and gauge reads mid scale when the oil pressure rises above about 5 pounds. There is an online fix to convert the gauge to real world readings, involves replacing sender switch with real variable resistance sender and jumpering resistor in dash, search FTE, under Ranger I believe, uses same engines.
With real world gauge, your oil pressure will run 40 to 60 psi at 2500 rpm, less at idle. My 4 L runs 55 at 2500 and 35 at idle.
What does your Mitsu turbo call for as spec oil pressure? Keep the boost under 10 PSI or the crankshaft and rods will come out thru the oil pan. Will have to run premium fuel, your compression wil be over 12:1. Engine will not perform until the exhaust has improved flow, dual exhaust from engine back.
Definitely add an oil cooler in the oil line to the turbo. Only use a synthetic motor oil, will stand up to turbo heat, dino oil dies. Will you be running an intercooler for extra horses and cooler engine?
Switch closes and gauge reads mid scale when the oil pressure rises above about 5 pounds. There is an online fix to convert the gauge to real world readings, involves replacing sender switch with real variable resistance sender and jumpering resistor in dash, search FTE, under Ranger I believe, uses same engines.
With real world gauge, your oil pressure will run 40 to 60 psi at 2500 rpm, less at idle. My 4 L runs 55 at 2500 and 35 at idle.
What does your Mitsu turbo call for as spec oil pressure? Keep the boost under 10 PSI or the crankshaft and rods will come out thru the oil pan. Will have to run premium fuel, your compression wil be over 12:1. Engine will not perform until the exhaust has improved flow, dual exhaust from engine back.
Definitely add an oil cooler in the oil line to the turbo. Only use a synthetic motor oil, will stand up to turbo heat, dino oil dies. Will you be running an intercooler for extra horses and cooler engine?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
I would not run it from the oil cap. I don't think you will get anywhere close to the pressure you need. I would tap somewhere else like where the pressure sensor is.
As for the idiot gauge, here is the fix:
http://rogueperformance.com/oilsw.html
And definitely get us some pics of your work!
As for the idiot gauge, here is the fix:
http://rogueperformance.com/oilsw.html
And definitely get us some pics of your work!
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Hawaii
Going to for this!
I'm going to tap it at the oil filter connection, using Perma-cool's Sandwich Style Kit w/ Oil Cooler. Using the Perma-cool "Sandwich Style Fitting" im taking the line out running it into the turbo, out of the turbo into this Tilton Differential Oil Pump! Out of the Tilton pump into the Perma-cool oil cooler, and then back into the Sandwich Style Fitting ( The Perfect Circle ) 
Mean!
I Thinking This Will Do Fine, Hopefully
Mean!I Thinking This Will Do Fine, Hopefully
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
It sounds like you are going to do a low mount turbo setup with the turbo tucked under the engine. I would strongly recommend a small sump tank, 0.5 to 1 quart, after the turbo and before the Tilton return pump. Otherwise, too much chance of sucking the turbo bearings dry with nasty results, turbo vane parts down engine intake
Put the Tilton pickup in the tank slighty higher than the turbo outflow line into the tank, no change of sucking turbo bearings dry.
Put the Tilton pickup in the tank slighty higher than the turbo outflow line into the tank, no change of sucking turbo bearings dry.
