90 Bronco II
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From: taylor usa
90 Bronco II
My son inlaw bought a 90 EB BII, 2.9 with 108K on it($400.00). It was sitting about a year. We went to look at it, wouldn't even crank over. Put new battery on it, still nothing. Found EEC Relay was popped, swapped it for another and it started right up. Drove it about 1.5 miles to the hauler. Shut it off, started it to put in the trailer, drove home ~50 miles with it in the trailer, then it wouldn't start. Did plugs, cap, rotor, wires, drained the tank added fresh fuel(couple gallons), new fuel filter, still no start. Cranks but no start. I suspect the fuel pressure regulator, schrader(SP) valve has pressure, or the injectors are gummed up. Any ideas guys?
Scott
Scott
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From: UT
Schrader valve has pressure? How much pressure?
I would verify that the fuel injectors are firing.
Pull codes from the computer (see Ken00's tech info post on pulling EEc-IV codes). Some no starts will leave codes in the computer.
Does it have spark? Ignition modules are a common problem on these.
I would verify that the fuel injectors are firing.
Pull codes from the computer (see Ken00's tech info post on pulling EEc-IV codes). Some no starts will leave codes in the computer.
Does it have spark? Ignition modules are a common problem on these.
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From: taylor usa
Shorty,
It does have spark, my apologies for not stating that.
I just know that the fuel rail is pressurized, don't know what the exact pressure is. But I am thinking it is in fuel delivery. It ran until we pushed enough fuel into the system to foul the injectors. Pulled a couple of plugs to look at after trying to get it to fire and they are fuel wet.
How to test for fuel injectors firing? Remember this is shade tree not a big garage with expensive set of tools. Also remember the only difference between running and not is the trailer ride.
Scott
It does have spark, my apologies for not stating that.
I just know that the fuel rail is pressurized, don't know what the exact pressure is. But I am thinking it is in fuel delivery. It ran until we pushed enough fuel into the system to foul the injectors. Pulled a couple of plugs to look at after trying to get it to fire and they are fuel wet.
How to test for fuel injectors firing? Remember this is shade tree not a big garage with expensive set of tools. Also remember the only difference between running and not is the trailer ride.
Scott
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From: UT
You can buy a "noid" light at most auto parts stores that will plug in to the fuel injector and test to see if the injector is receiving the electrical signal to fire.
Even if the fuel rail is pressurized, it seems to require at least 20-25 psi for the engine to run.
Does the fuel rail hold pressure with the pump off? If not, you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator (FPR) leaking fuel into the intake effectively flooding the engine, or some injectors stuck open.
How have you tested for spark? Barring something leaking and flooding the cylinders, it appears to be getting fuel into the cylinders. If it isn't flooding out, it should start, assuming there's a spark to ignite the mixture.
Even if the fuel rail is pressurized, it seems to require at least 20-25 psi for the engine to run.
Does the fuel rail hold pressure with the pump off? If not, you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator (FPR) leaking fuel into the intake effectively flooding the engine, or some injectors stuck open.
How have you tested for spark? Barring something leaking and flooding the cylinders, it appears to be getting fuel into the cylinders. If it isn't flooding out, it should start, assuming there's a spark to ignite the mixture.
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From: taylor usa
It does hold pressure for a period of time with the key off. Don't know how long though.
Tested the plugs the tried and true method of pulling a few and cranking the engine.
When we took out the old plugs they were heavily carboned. I will check the fuel pressure first.
Everything I own is now fuel injected, I bought a pressure gauge and will purchase a Noid light.
If the regulator is bad will the pressure be high or low?
S
Tested the plugs the tried and true method of pulling a few and cranking the engine.
When we took out the old plugs they were heavily carboned. I will check the fuel pressure first.
Everything I own is now fuel injected, I bought a pressure gauge and will purchase a Noid light.
If the regulator is bad will the pressure be high or low?
S
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From: taylor usa
I tested the the fuel rail and have a sustained 40 pounds of pressure.
The injector are firing in sequence. Plugs still look flooded. We pulled the fuel pump relay fuse and cranked it dry. Cleaned the plugs and reinstalled. cranked it with the fuse still pulled. Installed the fuse and attempted to start it. Plugs are flooded again. The tank only has ~2 gallons of gas and the partner added an entire bottle of Berryman's to the tank. Could this be the problem?
S
The injector are firing in sequence. Plugs still look flooded. We pulled the fuel pump relay fuse and cranked it dry. Cleaned the plugs and reinstalled. cranked it with the fuse still pulled. Installed the fuse and attempted to start it. Plugs are flooded again. The tank only has ~2 gallons of gas and the partner added an entire bottle of Berryman's to the tank. Could this be the problem?
S
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From: montgomery city usa
My 89 BII set for almost a year when i started it again, drove 6 miles and the same thing happened to me. My problem end up being the TFI module on the distributor, the stuff had dried between the distributor and the TFI causing it to not work propertly. I had spark but not enough to fire the engine. The plugs were coated with gas and everything check out.
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From: taylor usa
Thanks,
When we originally talked to the PO he mentioned that he was having a problem with it not starting after running for a while and I suspected the TFI then. But I assumed these would be thermal events causing the TFI to fail only after reaching operating temps.
Are all these modules the same? I have one off an 89 5.0, will it work? It looks as though we will need to pull the upper plenum to remove the distributor, correct?
Scott
When we originally talked to the PO he mentioned that he was having a problem with it not starting after running for a while and I suspected the TFI then. But I assumed these would be thermal events causing the TFI to fail only after reaching operating temps.
Are all these modules the same? I have one off an 89 5.0, will it work? It looks as though we will need to pull the upper plenum to remove the distributor, correct?
Scott
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From: montgomery city usa
Not sure if they are all the same or not. Its a tight fit but you can change it out with out pulling the distributor. It takes that special little tool for the screws/nuts. Unplug it and work you hands and fingers in there and you can get it off. I know that a TFI for a 2.9 will work on a 300 inline but not sure if a 5.0 will work. good luck
Mike
Mike
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From: taylor usa
We'll get a new one. I think that by loosening the distributor it can be turned enough to provide better access. Does it require a Torx head screw to remove it?
Thanks again...
Scott
Thanks again...
Scott
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From: taylor usa
We installed the new TFI. Back to the drawing board. Seems the spark is stronger, maybe wishful thinking. Got me stumped. No miss or backfire. Firing order is correct. I think I will test the compression tomorrow. Are there any sending units or sensors that would cause the flooding?
S
S
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From: miami florida
check the codes before wasting anymore money into the truck.
might be a simple thing did you also do the timing. i was reading in one of the posts that you guys put in a new tfi module did you take out the distributor or just turn it
after that did you find tdc and time it. or did you do it by hand.
might be a simple thing did you also do the timing. i was reading in one of the posts that you guys put in a new tfi module did you take out the distributor or just turn it
after that did you find tdc and time it. or did you do it by hand.