I have been trying to start the engine in my 59 - a 223 six. It has been some years since it was run. I couldn't get oil pressure turning it with the starter so I removed the distributor so I could turn the oil pump direct.

I found the pin holding the shaft to the drive gear was broke, and the end of the shaft battered. The hex fitting on the drive gear looks good, but I am not sure the hex shaft was turning the pump all the time.

I used my air ratchet to spin the shaft to drive the pump and got oil up to the filter and into the galley, but then it stripped (I was using a 12 point socket). I used a longer shaft I removed from a 289 V8 engine and a 6 point socket and got oil up to the rockers. I ordered a new shaft and a rebuilt distributor for the 223.

I have the spark plugs out and am turning the engine using a socket on the front pulley - it turns easy now and I do not hear any knocks when I rock it back and forth.

Of course, I managed to drop the 289's shaft into the oil pan when I removed my setup - so I guess I will drop the pan to get it out. This will also let me look at the mains and rods to see if they were ever starved for oil.

I guess you can still get Plastigage - that is what we used when I was a kid. Anybody know what sort of clearance is acceptable for the rod and mains?

My idea is to get the truck running without having to rebuild the engine - I still have not made up my mind if I want to stay stock or go with a bigger engine. There is enough paint and body work to keep me busy for some time.

You know how it goes - first you decide a bigger engine is good, then you need to upgrade the brakes so you might as well add power steering, and, with more speed you start thinking of making suspension changes - before long you have added a couple of years and several thousands of dollars to your project.

It is a road I don't want to start down - but I do not want to rebuild the 223 only to replace it later!

So anyway, any suggestions as to how loose I can run the mains and rods without hearing a knock? If needed I can turn new mains in and replace the rod bearings, but I do not want to drop the crank or remove the head.

 

If you are that deep into the engine and there is no crank journal scratching go ahead and replace the bearings, they're cheap and you do not need to remove the crank to replace them. If you hear a knock it's too late! Plastigauge is still available and the best way to check the clearances on the new bearings. Shop manual will give the tollerances. I doubt you could hear or feel a bad bearing by turning with a wrench, but will be obvious when you look at them (scored journal, rough bearing) Also change the timing chain while you are at it.

 

yes they still make plastigage, clearence on rods .0005 to .002..mains .0005 to .003, but don't be suprised if they are larger on an old engine, I would recommend removing a few caps and see how they look...sometimes you can get away with just putting in a new set of rod bearings as long as you have it apart, not much expence there and a new oil pump would be cheap insurance....good luck