Just this last Saturday I went out to my dad's house and helped him work on his air setup. A large (specs?...) upright compressor in the barn 35 ft from the shop. We ran 1/2 copper underground beside the elec conduit. He was planning on trasitioning from the copper to sch.40 pvc once in the shop. I debated with him. He insisted it would be safe and said that all the local shops have pvc air lines. I cited from heresay all the stuff I've now "confirmed" here this morning. Needless to say, I forwarded this post to him. I still think he oughta ditch the pvc. It was kinda shielded by the building structure, but we all know Murphy's Law.

 

!/2 copper underground will be filled up with water in no time unless you have a way to drain it. Esp underground it will condense back to water quickly. The drain would have to be at the lowest spot.

Dick

 

I realize that this is a very open question, but what would a ball park cost be to put black pipe into a 24X24 garage?

 

maa,
that's a question that's hard to answer, materials would cost more than labor for me as I have a power threader, Ridgid 700 with dies and a Tri-vice. Auto drains, regulators, materials to cover each corner I would say (wild guess) of $250. When done and this is on the high side as every project ends up on the high side in cost. I would use copper pipe for the cooling effect as well ease to install and lower cost. JMO.
.....=o&o>....

 

I have done some looking and it looks like PEX is not rated for compressed air but PEX-AL-PEX is rated for compressed air. Unfortunately I can find no specs so you would still need to contact the manufacturer. Plastic pipe is not good for air lines anyway because it does not cool the air like metal lines do to remove the moisture. So why mess with plastic line when metal has all the advantages???

 

Thanks....I knew when I posted the questions that it would be a wild guess kind of answer. I was really just looking for a ball park number, so thanks for giving me that!

Matt

 

Try this website. www.griotsgarage.com. They have a system that uses quick release connections on everything. No glue required. These guys are usually pricey but some items aren't too bad. Good luck.

 

Well as far as copper goes done correctly "m" copper will do the job very nicely ....Want a lil more insurance use "L" copper its a little thicker and for that must have system use "K" and if the joints are sillflossed you will never have to worry about a cracked joint and it wont pull apart. Copper is just too cheap and easily accessable at this point in time. This is just my 2 cents.

Glenn

 

I just ran lines in my garage... I didn't do anyting really fancy. Ok so I have to set this up for you to understand it... I have 3 one car garages length and witdth side by side (bays 1 through 3 left to right) and then 2 more 1 cars width by 2.5 cars deep About 25'x50' (Bays 4 and 5 again left to right) . I do the majority of my wrenching in the front middle of 4 and 5. I have another vechicle and a motorcycle in the back of the garages work bench blah blah blah. I put my compressor in bay #3 and ran a 15' air line through the wall to a hose reel. I have a filter/water collector there BEFORE the reel. The reel has a 50' rubber hose on it and a 3' extension that I have fitted with an inline oiler. I figured I would use the extra 3' when I use something that needs to be lubed, socket, die grinder, impact wrench, and then take it off when I didn't blow gun or paint. So Far it has workedout really well the only problem I am having as of yet is the filter has not all that great of a job under heavy load in the 80 degree heat and humidity of Baltimore.

I used teflon tape and all the joints and connections and I only seem to have 2 slow leaks 1 at the swivel for the reel and the other in a tight spot after the filter. I just disconnect the 15' lead when I leave the garage and my compressor isnt working when I'm not!

Just sharing how I ran my lines!

 

If you want a better filter for our east coast climate check out what the local body shops use you know their air needs to be moisture free. Another thing a bit more involved is to make a coil for the air to cool in before it hits the hoses that should help you loose the moisture for you! I know Ill be doing the same down here in Southern Md!!
Glenn

 

I have installed 8 or 10 home shop air systems. All have a max pressure from small compressors of 100/125lbs. I use 1-1/4" PVC. Using the larger pipe has several effects. It is a larger air tank and has little if any friction. I run the pipe up high in the shops with drops where needed. Never have had a problem.
Here is a tip!
On your drops put a "T" where you want the coupling. Then put a 8 or 10 inch drop under that with a TOILET water stop on the bottom end. Any condensation will collect in the lower pipe and every week or so walk around the shop and open the stops till the condensation is squirted out.. No need for anything fancy to catch the condensation.
Sch 40 is plenty strong for home use. And the cheapest you can use too.
Big Jim

 

I'm gonna use 1/2 pex. I'm betting it will work fine. I'm gonna go up to the ceiling twice and put drains at the bottom and then go around the shop and put my water separator in last. The stuff is pretty tough.

 

i am a contractor and we use a pvc that is made just for air lines..........................it is green and it has "for airline use" on it , we get it at a place called PVC , yes that is the name of it.

 

Does it come in a roll like pex or 10 foot sizes?

 

it comes just like sch40 pipe hard pipe have to use speacal glue and fittings but glues together just like normal pvc.....easy.