wiring problems
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Junior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 82
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From: SW Iowa
wiring problems
i need to get my truck started again, i dont know what went wrong but im 100% positive that my trouble is wiring. its a 1983 F-150 351W, 4 speed, 4x4.its got new battery, wires, plugs, solonoid, starter. i was driving it and all of the sudden it dies.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 14
From: West Cornwall, CT
I think that your truck has the Duraspark II ignition system. If so, the ignition module is bolted onto the driver's side fender liner. Look under the power brake master cylinder. The module looks like a 2" x 4" x 1" box with a couple of pigtail connectors coming from it.
A failed ignition module will cause the problems you are seeing. It is a 10 minute job to swap in a replacement module.
Lou Braun
A failed ignition module will cause the problems you are seeing. It is a 10 minute job to swap in a replacement module.
Lou Braun
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Junior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: SW Iowa
well it was turning over, but now it wont, but i think its bc of a dead battery. but when i put in a new battery, it wouldnt turn over until my dad pulled the truck with the tractor backwards, so i could coast it and drop the clutch
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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Ok, heres a rundown.
Check for spark.
If no spark, test for power to coil and module.
If power to coil, then first pull cap and make sure rotor turns.
If rotor turns, then I'd say problem is either coil or module.
If no power to coil or module, it will be troubleshooting time.
Check for spark.
If no spark, test for power to coil and module.
If power to coil, then first pull cap and make sure rotor turns.
If rotor turns, then I'd say problem is either coil or module.
If no power to coil or module, it will be troubleshooting time.
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Junior User
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From: SW Iowa
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Do you have a test light or voltmeter to use.
Check for 12v power at bat. terminal of coil. Ignition on.
Its starting to sound like that module. and no you need the same module even down to the color at module where wires go in.
Check for 12v power at bat. terminal of coil. Ignition on.
Its starting to sound like that module. and no you need the same module even down to the color at module where wires go in.
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Senior User
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With ignition on, using testlight, ground clamp and check for 12v at BAT. (+) side of coil. Igniton module run for about $20 for cheapy AutoZ. to $50-$60 for good one.
To test module is a confusing process to describe right away.
To test module is a confusing process to describe right away.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,137
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From: Asheville, NC
My '83 351W C6 has the Duraspark III. You will find nothing in your distributor besides a rotor and the cap/wires. I NEED to change my Dura III over to the Dura II. The computer is dying and my timing is allover the place!!!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Black Hills South Dakota
From what I've read here, it's normal for the computer-set timimg to jump around. You need to disable it via the SPOUT line to set the timing by a light, then reconnect the SPOUT.
Sorry to leave you with a cliffhanger on how to do that, but I haven't read up on that part of the manual yet!
-Ed
Sorry to leave you with a cliffhanger on how to do that, but I haven't read up on that part of the manual yet!
-Ed
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Black Hills South Dakota
Digital multimeters are running about 5 bucks nowadays. My local hardware carries them. They're almost like the stick-on digital clocks that were sold everywhere in the 80's, so it should be easy to find one.
Make sure the battery has a good charge and cables are clean and tight. New batteries have a very tiny charge to begin with. They are shipped dry, electrolyte isn't added till they're sold, so they are essentially in their discharged state.
The haynes and probably the chilton manual has testing procedures for the various modules with pictures to help guide you.
-Ed
Make sure the battery has a good charge and cables are clean and tight. New batteries have a very tiny charge to begin with. They are shipped dry, electrolyte isn't added till they're sold, so they are essentially in their discharged state.
The haynes and probably the chilton manual has testing procedures for the various modules with pictures to help guide you.
-Ed
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Holmesuser01
My '83 351W C6 has the Duraspark III. You will find nothing in your distributor besides a rotor and the cap/wires. I NEED to change my Dura III over to the Dura II. The computer is dying and my timing is allover the place!!!
Unplug the vacuum advance(hose on the front of your distributor) Plug it off with something like a golf tee(these work really well for a plug). Then hook up your timing light, and start the truck. You will set your timing from there, and once that's done, re-connect the vacuum line.