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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 08:34 PM
  #16  
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From: South Texas Coast
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Sorry, the pistons are not aluminum, they are hypereutectic pistons which is a silicate aluminum alloy. Melting temp is 1250.

Then if you call garrett you will find the turbo is only rated for 1270 before the impeller blades may be heat damaged. But the turbo is far enough from the pistons that till you get it to 1270 the pistons will probably have holes in them.
By alloying metals with other metals, or non metals for that matter, you can modestly affect the physical properties in this case the have gained 48 degrees thats less than a 4% increase. That 48 degrees will disappear in a heartbeat under conditions that produce such elevated EGT. Remember that 400 degree differential between pre and post turbo temps? If you get to 900 degrees post turbo you are still above the melting point of the pistons (900 + 400 = 1300).

You can play with technicalities all you want. If you feel safe running with such high EGT be my guest. I personally wil not excede 1200 degrees pre turbo.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 09:43 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by johnny8
that info just makes me feel that much better about backing out of the throttle if i start to see it closing in on 1200*...!
take her out of OD works well too.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 10:46 AM
  #18  
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just remember though, that the gas is being measured at 1250 degrees, but what is the rate of heat transfer, the piston doesnt instantly absorb that heat, and the piston itself is being cooled by oil
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:41 PM
  #19  
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The last statement is true. Although it makes us uneasy, you can take the engine a lot further without damage. I know I'll get heat for this, but I had the truck pretty hot last summer. Went down the oregon coast, and up to Crater Lake. Crater Lake is 7500 ft elevation, ambient temps at 35 degrees celcius (closing in on 100degrees Ferenhiet), and pulling a heavy 5ver. My EGT's post turbo were in the area of 1300 the almost the whole climb. doing about 100 km/h the whole way. The engine is fine, although, the following spring, the turbo had to be repaired, for obvious reasons. Not going to do that again, but there is proof that the engines will survive this kind of punishment.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 03:43 PM
  #20  
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You can use the EGT's as a gauge, but they dont tell the whole story. You have the cooling system, the oil, and the cool air, all taking heat energy out of the engine.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 04:38 PM
  #21  
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I spoke with Dale Isley about this, he drug is 29foot box trailer across SD at about 1350 the whole way. So, i agree with nick even if he is canadian...
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 04:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 18vtx00
take her out of OD works well too.
funny thing about that... i found on my mule that while towing the 5ver and running on the highway at 74 or so and giving her some pedal so she was making good boost right at the bottom of a big hill, but NOT shifting out of OD... she would carry the hill in OD and not downshift and ran LOWER egts by about 100* than she did if i slowed her down to 62 or so and shifted her out of OD... i'm not sure why this is true, but it is..
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #23  
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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What I said about the pistons starting to melt at 1250, not 1222 was not to make you run it harder. And yes the oil jets cool the pistons. The oil also cools the turbo. Do any of you want to tell me how hot your oil can get before it is worthless as far as lubrication?

Running high EGT's can damage a lot more than the pistons and turbo.

Yep that guy did it, his still runs OK so I am gonna do mine the same way.

I know how much a motor costs, and I know how much it costs to swap it once you have the new motor. I personally never run my pyrometer over 1150 pre turbo. There is no place in the world that I have to get to so fast that it is worth a 10,000 dollar motor job.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:29 PM
  #24  
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not all of us drive our trucks for transportation either, mine is a toy, i beat on it like it stole something, and i pay those consequences, several rear drivelines, one front, one rear ring and pinion set, numerous tires, 1 clutch, but its fun. Push your truck as hard as you want, but remember you pay to play. And if you cant do the work yourself, and have to pay 10K for a motor, then im sorry.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 05:38 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Stroker_Deezel
not all of us drive our trucks for transportation either, mine is a toy, i beat on it like it stole something, and i pay those consequences, several rear drivelines, one front, one rear ring and pinion set, numerous tires, 1 clutch, but its fun. Push your truck as hard as you want, but remember you pay to play. And if you cant do the work yourself, and have to pay 10K for a motor, then im sorry.
you make an excellent point... let me give you the flipside of it... i use my truck as a dailly driver and occasionally i tow my 5ver and a small trailer... i need my mule to LAST...! so... based on the inforamtion about melting points and such... and the price estimate you gave for putting a new motor in my mule... i will continue to "take it easy" on my mule and i will ALWAYS keep those egts BELOW 1200*...! i can play all i want without pushing my mule to those extremes that might cause damage or might shorten the usefull life of my mule..!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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im not telling anyone to play or not to play, what i was saying, is dont preach to me about babying a truck, not all of us do, nor want to. If i melt my motor, fine, i'll pull it, and put something else in it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 06:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Stroker_Deezel
im not telling anyone to play or not to play, what i was saying, is dont preach to me about babying a truck, not all of us do, nor want to. If i melt my motor, fine, i'll pull it, and put something else in it.
don't get me wrong man... i WISH i could AFFORD to play with my truck like that...!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 06:53 PM
  #28  
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i think i am just to stupid to know i cant afford it...
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 06:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Stroker_Deezel
i think i am just to stupid to know i cant afford it...
heh..! i have been guilty of that on occasion...!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 07:21 PM
  #30  
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The only thing that bothers me about this is, what happens when someone reads 1300 degrees is OK. But the person reading 1300 is OK is some guy depending on his truck for a living. He don't know that the person saying 1300 or more is OK is just using his truck as a toy. So the guy goes out and runs his truck up a hill at 1300 and it melts a piston. Now he has no ride and a big repair bill.

I use my truck for work every day. It is also my only transportation. Yes I paid real close to 10,000 for my new engine and the install.

Why?
Well I hired a couple of guys that have a shop to help me swap the engine.
I also replaced the clutch, turned the flywheel, replace the radiator, replaced the heater core, replaced all the belts and hoses, replaced the fan clutch and had all this done in 14 hours from the time it drove in the door of the shop till it drove back out the door. Missed one day of work with my truck.

Some of us depend on our trucks for our living, we do not have time to mess around when it is broken. And we most certianly can not take risks that are uncalled for.
 
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