'86 F150 spewing fuel!
Dealership messed with my carb to get it to pass emmissions testing...(what a joke). Truck ran like poo. So, I adjust the needle 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. I also removed the fuel filter, inspected it, replaced it without incedent.
Now, fuel is spewing from the base of the carb, as well as fountaining out of the top of the carb??!! I leaned it back, but that didn't help. Slao, I noticed that my gasket on the carb is missing. (was there before dealer worked on it, wasn't there when I looked at it.
So, did the gasket fall in and is jamming something, or was there a restrictor in the fuel filter that maybe fell out? My truck is dead until I can figure this out!
'86 F150XLT Lariat I6 Carb. Fairly new carb.
Thanks!
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DT
She is working like a charm now! I haven't road-tested it yet because I don't want to have to push it home again. :-)
Now, how do I ensure that the float won't stick again? Is it easily adjustable? I think I have a Holley carb, but I can post pics if that would help.
ThankyouThankyouThankyouThankyou. I luv my truck!
Another thing. Carb bolts need to be torqued down(usually about 10ft/lbs) You tighten them in a criss-cross pattern.
If you're going to take the carb off, may as well grab a rebuild kit, and replace the needle and seat, all the gaskets and o-rings(if required and supplied) and set the float level. From there, you'll need to adjust the carb after the re-install.
This is a good time to change your fuel filter, as well.
Basic carb adjustment.
With engine warmed up to operating temp, engine off.
Turn in the idle/air mixture screws until they gently bottom out. Turn out 2.5 turns each.
Attach a vacuum gauge to an un-used vacuum port, and hang it with wire from the hood where you can see it while making the adjustments to the idle/air screws.
Start the truck, and adjust each screw until max vacuum is attained on the gauge, and then back off(inward) 1/4 turn.
All of this is done with the air cleaner in place, and can be a bit tricky if you don't have a carb adjustment type screw-driver(it's flexible, and long), but is do-able.
While you're at it, may as well double check the timing with a timing light after the carb is set. Never hurts to have things perfect.
But glad you fixed it, no guarentee it won't stick again but it shouldn't.
DT
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One point, is it possible that my carb only has one needle to adjust? I keep seeing reference to pairs of needles, but I only see one on mine.
Also, the gasket that is missing is the one that goes between the air-cleaner assembly and the top of the carb. Will pick up a new one.
Thank you again!
(I luv U guys!)
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
One point, is it possible that my carb only has one needle to adjust? I keep seeing reference to pairs of needles, but I only see one on mine.
Also, the gasket that is missing is the one that goes between the air-cleaner assembly and the top of the carb. Will pick up a new one.
Thank you again!
(I luv U guys!)
Should only be one needle to adjust, unless you got an older Holley 4v carb.
The gasket between the air cleaner and carb is not as important, but it may affect air flow, and how clean the air that enters the carb is. Good thing to have it in place.
For the base carb gasket, pick up a tube of loc-tite 501 gasket maker, and spread a super thin layer over it. That stuff is the world's best gasket restore goop I've ever seen. It remains flexible under all temps, and seals super well, and even helps with old dried out gaskets.
I've used it on rubber and cork gaskets on everything from the lawnmower to a truck to a motorcycle and it does wonders.






