Hi Everyone,

I'm hyped... just got myself an '83 F150 4x4... had to tell someone! I have been more into the '78/'79 Broncos in the past, but in my budget range (or lack thereof) you take what comes along! This poor ol' truck has done some serious sitting, license plates expired four years ago, working on getting it back to being useable transportation. Just uploaded a picture to my gallery but I should add a warning here that it's not real pretty.

Inline 6, manual trans, 4x4, no AC (fine by me less junk under the hood). Fuel pump took a leak, changed the oil yesterday, LOTS of gas in the oil (pump is bypassed with a carb type electric for now so all is well). Truck is a dual tank and I'm having major issues with bad stinky nasty orange gas and wondering if EITHER tank is even worth trying to rescue. And the brake booster leaks like a sieve!

ANYWAYS... a real question. This has the manual trans with NON-hydraulic (old style) linkage. Clutch feels fine but the pedal doesn't return all the way up. Did some inspecting and found that the two bushings are toast on the linkage (what the heck is that thing technically called- a z bar)? Anyone have any experience with that? Will try Napa today, but I'm wondering if those bushings might be a dealer item.

 

Welcome to the forum, and enjoy the rig. Old trucks are fun, and challenging. Lots of good info for you to put to work here, and lots of people to help out. I was always a 67-72 fan, prior to the 81 I bought a year ago.

Tough finding a decent 67-72 where I live now, so I moved up a few years. Still looking, though, as I love that body style.

You'd hate me cuz I used a 79 Bronco as a donor truck on my last 69 4x4. Pretty much robbed if of everything...t-case and trans, front diff, tilt steering, intermittent wipers, power steering to make the 69 a bit more modern.

 

I've heard it called clutch equalizer bar, balance bar, or just plain ol' clutch linkage bar.

 

The bushings are definitely available via NAPA. I replaced them on the 69 a few years back, and they had them for that truck. Should have them for yours as well.

 

I replaced the same bushing on the old 69 a few years ago, and NAPA was where I got mine. They should have them for yours as well. Mechanical clutch as well, not hydraulic. I actually prefer mechanical clutches, although the require a bit more maintenance. One thing I would recommend, grab a new return spring(hooks between the one end of the adjuster to the frame underneath the truck) and replace it as well.

The old, worn out spring doesn't help the return factor any.

 

Thanks guys for all the input! Glad that Napa still has these things... was hoping it wouldn't be some obscure unfindable part.

Spent WAY too much time yesterday trying to determine which gas (dual) tank to trust! Rear tank looks rusty outside and was empty when I got the truck. Front tank had a half a tank of very stinky gas in it (truck runs on it but not so good). But the back strap on the front tank snapped (rust). Probably should nuke 'em both and just buy one new rear tank. I'm embarassed to say I have been pumping the nasty gas from the front tank to put into the rear tank to check for leaks. Didn't want to spend $2.35 a gallon for "test gas" that might leak back out. So far the rear tank is holding and (bonus) the sender even works.

New Q... if anyone's actually following this thread this far. My brake booster leaks like a seive; no problem I know I need to replace it. Here's what I don't get though. I popped off the vacuum line to the booster and stuck my thumb over it... figuring the truck would run better without that vacuum leak. Idle dropped, RPMs dropped, truck almost sounded like it wanted to die. (Keep in mind I am still running this thing on nasty gas though- I know I need to take care of that ASAP). But I'm confused on the vacuum leak. I would have expected it to run BETTER without the leak, not worse. Wondering... if I stick a good booster on there that doesn't leak... is this truck going to run that bad? Weird.

Truck has a 1 bbl carb... I have not messed with any settings. Figured it would be best waiting until I get some of these other issues taken care of before starting a new one!

 

A shot in the dark...

The carb could be adjusted for idle with the bad vaccume leak.