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I am going to have to replace the oil pan gasket, is buying a gasket better than using permatex ultra blue RTV silicone?
Also it is a 84 F-250 300 c.i. 6 cylinder and will I need to raise the engine to get it out?
One more question, while I have the pan off I want to replace the rear oil seal at the very least, possibly both front and rear, but if I do not have the time to drop the crank, can the rear seal be replaced without doing that?
Pan is not rusty, that is impossible due to the continued slickin of oil it has had for a very long time, smile.
Seriously I do not see any rust at all, but just finished dropping the pan and the old gasket is fried and broken in a hundred pieces, parts of it are fried to the block and other parts to the pan.
The truck sat for a long time and evidently the gasket dried out and when I bought it and it got oil circulating again showing up in more leaks, the leaks he told me it had got much worse.
good that the pan is not rusted. how was oil pressure? these engines have a habit of the oil pump pickup screen clogging. mine was and it was no fun to change. use only motorcraft oil filter. if it was me i would run a cleaner through it seeing it sat for a long time. i would suggest seafoam in oil and fuel. pay attention to the rear of the gasket before you tighten her up look to make sure all is lined up. use felpro one piece blue gasket if you didnot already buy one.
Last edited by quicklook2; Jul 16, 2005 at 07:51 PM.
Yes I had already bought the gasket and it is a Fel-Pro.
The oil pressure was normal, but I am going to check out the screen just as you mention.
Whats the reason to stay with MotorCraft on the oil filter, Fram is no good for Fords?
Also think I am going to loosen the motor mounts and jack it up so I can take the oil pan completely out and clean it, check the surface for dents, etc.
As dirty as the mating surfaces are with the busted up gasket cooked on, seems I have to get it off to make sure it all comes clean, then I can also check the screen.
I hope jacking the engine up some will give the clearance needed.
Completed changing the oil pan gasket yesterday and decided to take the pan completely out, had to raise the engine to do so......oh the horror.
After getting it off and cleaning it up from the massive amounts of sludge I did find rust on the pan, removed it all by sanding, scraping and wire wheels,then repained it white so I could see immediatly any leaks I may have afterwards.
Would have used some petroleum jelly but transportaion was limited due to everyone else around here gone and I had none here at the house.
Anyway it is now on and no leaks, glory halleluya, thanks again for the information and comments.
frams filters are usually carboard and fall apart do to heating up then cooling down. There anti drainback valves aren't very good either which can starve the motor of oil at start-up which is where it is most needed. Then to top that off they are expensive.
If you want a good filter get a napa gold, motorcraft or k&n oil filter. The first 2 were cheap and made the same, the 3rd is expensive but, still nice.
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