I thought a recovery strap has some snap to it to help pull you(or your freind, cause we don't get stuck)out of the mud, is this true?

And a tow strap, is it like a regular rope and just flat?

I was wanting a 3"x30' 30,000 lbs raiting or so, recovery strap or which ever one is the best for yanking people out of the mud.

What do you guys think?

 

Stay away from the rope-like ones. They are just a nylon rope with a fairly open lay. They are mostly for pulling something down the highway with even tension, and regardless of what the mfg claims, they are not that strong. If you want to use a strap in the mud, use a 4" nylon minimum. They typically are available in 25 or 30 ft lengths. Most 4wd shops/stores sell them, but you never know of their origin. for a few dollars per strap more, you can go to a local aerial lift supplier (like Certified Slings) and purchase US made, rated nylon straps. They are shock tested, rated, double folded and double stitched, and usually have a canvas wear cover over the loop ends to prevent fraying. Buy some forged, rated US made clevises at the same place, 3/4" min. These items are designed to be used in construction applications where people's lives are potentially at stake during every lift, so the quality is much better than those sold at Bubba's 4x4 Store.

Also, please note that using momentum and a strap to pull someone out is a learned practice if it is to be done safely. Do not back up until you hear sheet metal crunch, then nail it. You will break your strap, your rig, and yourself. Start by tightening the strap and applying even pressure. If that doesn't work, clear everyone out of the area, back up about 3 feet, bump him and stand on the gas. You can continue trying longer runs until you are unsure you can control your rig. At that point, devise a new strategy. Hookup points are critical with a strap, since it can be cut by truck parts. If improperly used, straps are dangerous, creating missiles that can kill people. Be careful.

Sorry this post is so long, but I want to emphasize that this must be done right. I'vs seen many people injured by doing it the wrong way. I haven't seen anyone killed yet in person, but I have seen instances where the guy only escaped by a few inches. If you know this already, OK. If you have other concerns or questions, pm me, I'd be glad to help.

Good Luck,
Ernie

 

Nice post Green

 

Ernie is the man! I drove wreckers for twenty years in the Army and can definatlly say he is right. Safe recovery is the key to a long life.

Chris

 

You're talking about a kinetic recovery strap. It's designed to stetch (to a point) and use that stored energy of the vehicle and strap to break the vehicle free. They are a great tool, but as stated above, you need to be very careful that you don't overload it and you know what can happen next. Good rule of thumb, when looking at these type of straps is to get one that is rated for 3 times (min) the weight of what you are pulling. The safe working load on these types of straps is usually between 10% to 30% of its max capacity.

If you want some "decent" info on recovery techniques and procedures, do a google search for BDAR. Some of the military folks know what this is. It has lots of rigging procedures, recovery methods, equipment, etc that you may be interested in.

 

here's one step further

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ery%20ch22.pdf

-cutts-

 

Kinetic energy is energy in motion/action.
Potential energy is energy that is stored. Something must first motivate, move, stretch, etc. in order to get it going.

IE. A rubber band that is or is not stretched has potential energy. Ocne it is released, the potential energy is converted into kinetic energy. When it reaches its resting point at which it no longer has any more stored enrgy, all of the kinetic energy is retransfered to potential.

 

Yeah if you are going to get a nylon strap for recory purposes, get the biggest you can find (i use an 8" double layered 50' 150,000 lbs, we also use it to recover stick 4wd tractor, these things will pul a 4wd tractor backwards after stretching double its lenght. I would try for a 5 to 6" strap if you can.

 

Well, I was trying to keep everything in simple terms, not give a physics class. Just trying to give him the difference between what a tow strap is and other items used for recovery.

 

It is good to show the tech side and the real world side...gives great balance to the discussion.


The true colors of FTE....shows both sides

 

Just as long as Chevy doesnt get a side...

Yeah, I understand. I guess you could call it a potential energy strap, as it is potential until it begins to return to its original length. IE-while you are stretching it it is potential energy, then it reaches its limits, you stop pulling, it slowly- or maybe quickly- returns to its original positition. Potential energy strap works for me...

 

Thanks for all the info guys, it's great, but I haven't heard of any strap over 3". When could I find one?

Oh and a tow strap would be good for what I'd need right, just a recovery strap?

 

Yeah itll work for you. If you get anything under 4" I would not jerk while pulling out a truck. 4" and over with a good capacity will be ok to yank with.

Also, EVERYONE should ALWAYS put somthing over the center of the strap or chain when pulling out. that way, if the rope/chain should snap it will shoot to the ground, not into a tailgate or a friend's truck nearby, or at worst, a nearby friend. A towel or something weighted will work well. Ive even used snow chains off a small car. they work very well, and Ive snapped stuff before.

 

i like my 1 1/2 inch masterpull rope

http://www.masterpull.com/results.cfm?catid=360

 

kubota, have you ever actually used it? lol last time i saw it you had it neatly tucked into a bag and it looked like you had just picked it up from the store, lol

-cutts-