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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Pinion seal replacement

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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #1  
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From: east central Illinois
Pinion seal replacement

I'm getting ready to replace my pinion seal. Dad thought it might be tricky since there is possibly a crush sleeve behind the pinion. I took a look at my shop manual and parts books and it doesn't look like my axle has a crush sleeve. I've been deceived by my books before, though. Anybody have experience with this process? I know George has done it and he made no mention of a crush sleeve but he has a '56 F-250.

So, do I need to count the number of turns it takes to get the pinion lock nut off? I've also heard you can figure what tourque it takes to get it off and use that setting when putting it back on. But if I don't have a crush sleeve I can just set my torque wrench to the right number and have at it?



Kevin
1953 Ford F-100
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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Jag Red 54
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A friend helped me replace the pinion seal on my 54's 9-inch. It leaked just as bad as before we replaced it. Later, when I had the gears changed out, I had the rearend guy replace the pinion seal again. He said that my buddy had over-torqued the new seal! It hasn't leaked a drop sense. Don't know if this helps, but it seems that in this case, less is more. Good luck, Jag
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:29 AM
  #3  
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From what I gathered doing some searching, the 9 inch is a whole other animal. I really hope it is as easy as pulling the yoke, replacing the seal, putting the yoke back on and torquing the nut. A guy can be a little optimistic, right?



Kevin
1953 Ford F-100
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:53 AM
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Kev,

Which axle is it? The Dana (Spicer) 44 has no crush sleeve, the seal is just a straightforward replacement. The pinion nut goes to 200-220 ft. lbs., but it's not critical to go quite that tight as long as you haven't messed around with the bearing or depth shims. Grease the seal lip heavily & drive it square, just as with any seal, & I'm guessin' you know all that already.

Mike
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:16 PM
  #5  
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Kevin,

One other thing to check

The seal surface on my yoke had a pretty deep groove worn in it
I had it ground built up with hard chrome then ground back to the original dia'

Stephen
 

Last edited by Steve_B; Jul 15, 2005 at 12:55 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:40 PM
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Another possibility is to get a "Seal Saver" from Sealed Power, which is a simple sleeve that presses over the damaged shaft & provides a new surface for the seal lip. Less expensive, but...they sometimes don't help, if the seal lip is slightly bent over (from the larger O.D. of the shaft). This has a lot of variables & generally isn't an issue, but it can happen. The seal tends to fail more quickly than usual, in those cases.

Steve's solution is the better method, if replacing the ring & pinion isn't an option due to parts availability/cost. The Dana sets are relatively cheap, if you don't have to import them over the Atlantic, that is.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 06:06 AM
  #7  
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Sorry I didn't reply earlier Kevin. The utility company cut our cable when they installed the neighbor's phone line. I'm on a jury-rigged dial-up line right now and it is sllllooooowwwww ...

The DANA 60 in my F-250 and the DANA 44 in your F-100 don't have the crush tubes (as the fellas have said). I didn't have any sort of significant wear ring on my pinion shaft so I was good to go with a new seal. You already have all the info you should need in the above posts. Good luck with it.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:16 PM
  #8  
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A retired mechanic taught me a trick a few years ago. If you remove the yoke on a 9", you have to install a new crush sleeve. The way around that is to scribe a line across the the pinion, nut, and yoke before you do anything else. Remove the nut and yoke, and replace the seal. Put the yoke back on so the scribe line matches. Tighten the nut until the scribe line is matched again, Voila! You have the same preset on the crush sleeve.
 
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