hello again , once again ive got more plans and have some ?'s the truck is a 76 f150 4x4 and has been upgraded to a 76 f350 booster and master cylinder but the brakes still aren't what i would like them to be and was thinking of going with the hydroboost setup . My ?'s are

1. has anyone done this ? / what parts will i need ?
2. will it be to much stress on the ps pump , im also running hydo assist steering?


THANKS
FOR ALL THE HELP AND IDEAS

 

Look in the tech section. There will be an article dealing with swapping on late "big" car dual piston calipers onto your disk's for mucho bettero brake power.

The problem is your small clamping force single piston caliper. Going to a dual piston with a larger clamping area is the optimal direction, and the big car calipers can fit easily in 15" rims too.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...d_Broncos.html

There's the article. I just realized with 44's you probably have a Dana 60...so..you'd probably already have 1-ton brakes. Sonuva....

Sorry....that article still has lots of information regarding WHERE to look for the problem.

 

why not just do a pinion brake operated via hand control? that would let you keep your exisiting brakes the same and not compromise their reliability but would also give you piece of mind knowing that you could lock up all 4's if needed! rig up a ratching action some how and have a badass parking brake!

-cutts-

 

sorry forgot to mention that yes i have the dana 60 up front and the dana 70 out back. good write up on the brakes though.

 

I would keep the brakes on all 4 corners as is (as them dual piston calipers you will have up front are fairly decent as well as the rear drums), then incorapte a pinion brake onm the rear diveshaft (like a ford 1/2 ton caliper and rotor for example), then put a y in the rear brake line and run a line to the new caliper (put a p-valve in there though). Or you could upgrade your front rotors to a a harder crossdrilled/vented rotor and better pads, and upgrade the rear drums to disk.

 

how did you bleed your system?? did you bench bleed the MC?? just doing a typical brake bleed wont always get all the air out of the lines, especially if the person pumping the brakes pumped too much and broke the air bubbles into a million microscopic bubbles, that makes it impossible to get ALL the ai....i recommend taking it somewhere and having a vacuum bleed done, just to be sure.......those big brakes should stop it, those tires have alot of rolling weight for sure, but those brakes were designed to stop these trucks and their loads.......of course i could be talking out of my brown eye because ive never done the conversion you did....but, i do know the stock brakes on my 78 F-250 sno fighter will make you hit the dash with little effort at the pedal, and thats with a bad rear wheel cylinder....the driveline brake is a good idea, thats what my B-700 bus has for a parking brake, its a funny drum brake and is located in front of the driveshaft.... it will hold that heavy bus on a steep incline, i used it to stop the bus before as well, it was kinda tricky but it worked when the regular brakes didnt!!....you might be able to incorporate one directly off a bus or something...good luck with it.......

 

Hey! If you can wait just a little bit I should have the hydro boost on my truck within about a week or so. Just finishing up some axle junk right now and then I will be adapting the hydroboost setup to my truck and plumbing it all in. I can tell you that with the research I did it looks like a sag pump will handle hydroboost and hydro assist steering at the same time just fine. Several guys on Pirate are doing this with no problems.

Have you converted the rear axle to disc brakes yet?

 

get some cheap soft pads for the front too, they wont last as long, but they stop alot better, i had the "good" ones on my truck for a few years, and decdided to try the cheapest pads they had at the store, i can almost lock up my front 44's now with the stock dual pistons

 

be sure that those cheap pads have rivets holding the material to the rest of the pad or the pieces will seperate under extreme heat and cause you big problems.

 

Thanks ivan for the info , im not ready to do this for another couple of weeks just wanted to start getting info and what parts i might need . Give me a yell or i'll talk to you in a week or so . Let me know how much better braking you get from doing this and i'm still running the drums on the rear for now .


THANKS AGAIN

 

Before you bother with the expense and hassle of hydro-boost I'd seee about changing the rears to discs. I've seen people do this and stop in half the distance they needed with their drums. Hydro-boost will give you more brake pressure but damn drums just won't grab the same as discs.

I'll let you know what I find out with the hydro-boost setup. It'll take some work to get it in there but should be nice when it's done.

 

Yeah but with them big drums once you get about 600lbs over them they get to workin reall well, but i don't see that happenin in a trail rig .

 

just get a big anchor

-cutts-

 

The damn drums weight almost that themselves!