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Voltmeter Wiring

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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 01:41 PM
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Voltmeter Wiring

Hey all. I've been searching this forum the last couple of days and found a few things I've needed to know about a problem I'm having. I just bought a 1977 F150 Supercab with a 460. I had no problems with it when test driving it but when I got it home it became hard to start.

It has a new battery, ignition module, starter relay and voltage regulator. I've done the check-all-connections thing and fusible link-pull check. All seems ok. Also did the charge-start-and-remove-the-neg-wire thing. It died. Checked with voltmeter and read about 10 or 11 and no change with higher rpm's. The stock voltmeter of course dosen't work and one was wired in althought not completely connected. On the back of the wired in voltmeter two big wires are attached and one was connected to the starter relay and the other kinda confused me and leads to my question.

The other was connected to the yellow to blk/red wire that goes to the "B" on the alternator, from the voltage regulator and an orange wire labeled fuselink that I traced to under the dash connected to some sort of relay that is wired to the back of the A/C/ Heater switch. This relay under the dash resembles a horn relay. I found the horn relay in the engine compartment. Anyway, the wiring diagram shows the blk/red wire to be connected to the starter relay. These wires were in no way connected to the starter relay.

Is there a reason why it would be connected the way it was? And what is the relay thingy under the dash.

Thanks,
John
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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What year truck is this?

The stock dash guage it's an ammeter, not a volt meter. That's important because the two types of guages get connected differently. The stock guage can be made to work ok. It's finnicky and has to have clean connections. Do a search and see what you find.

The extra volt meter should be wired from power to ground. If the + terminal on the meter is the one wired to the solenoid that's fine. The - side should just go to a metal point on the dash. Volt meters in general are safer an give a better indication of charging system health.

Your reading of 10 volts while running indicates to be either a bad regulator or bad alternator.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 02:21 PM
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If you disconnect the negative cable from the battery and the engine dies wouldn't that tell us the alternator is gone?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 03:34 PM
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you said there are two large wires? i think you have a aftermarket ammeter not a voltmeter. i think your alternator is bad , have it tested.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 04:09 PM
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Thanks for the replys.


It's a '77. It does have an aftermarket (cheapie) Ammeter or Voltmeter. There are two small wires that were not connected at all (besides the two large wires).

I'm not sure the alternator was connected properly, which was my question. It was not connected to the starter relay at all and the diagram from autozone showed that it should be. Not sure if I said or not but the alternator is new. Course, from the searches I've read we all know how new things can be.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
John
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 04:16 PM
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ok , well if the 2 wires on the ammeter are unhooked that means it can't charge the batt. a ammeter requires you to route the charging lead into the cab and to the gauge , then back to the battery. find the charging wire off the alt and see where it goes.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 07:44 PM
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I've done the check-all-connections thing and fusible link-pull check. All seems ok. Also did the charge-start-and-remove-the-neg-wire thing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If you mean ,removed the negative battery cable ?

That is a great way to blow your alternator.


Welcome to FTE!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:20 AM
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it will blow all the diodes in the unit.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
ok , well if the 2 wires on the ammeter are unhooked that means it can't charge the batt. a ammeter requires you to route the charging lead into the cab and to the gauge , then back to the battery. find the charging wire off the alt and see where it goes.
Alright, well I was thinking I would just leave the ammeter unhooked as it is broken anyway. Shouldn't the charging wire go to the starter relay? Again that is my question. The big wire to the alternator was connected to one of the aftermarkets big wires, and to another wire that was orange and had fusible link on it that went into the cab and to another relay under the dash that split off to the A/C, Heater switch. It was not connected to the starter relay at all, as the wiring diagram shows it should be. I'm wondering if there is a reason why the charging wire from the alternator should not be connected to the starter relay.

Thanks for the help.
John
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
I've done the check-all-connections thing and fusible link-pull check. All seems ok. Also did the charge-start-and-remove-the-neg-wire thing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If you mean ,removed the negative battery cable ?

That is a great way to blow your alternator.


Welcome to FTE!
Thanks for the heads up guys. I won't be doing that again.

And thanks for the welcome. It's good to be back in the Ford family again.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:05 AM
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Here is the diagram. I hope.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800ce982.jsp
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:09 AM
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run the wire right fromt he charging post to the battery side of the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
run the wire right fromt he charging post to the battery side of the starter solenoid.
Alright! That's what i wanted to hear.

Very much appreciated. This is a great site.
John
 
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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I went out and wired'er back up, put the charging wire on the starter relay like it was SUPPOSED to be, took'er for a spin, came home, killed it and she started right back up. Before it would just turn over and over and over..hehe. Anyway, so far so good.

Thanks to all who replied, 'preciate'cha. Isn't the internet great. Saving me tons of money.

John
 
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