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Old Dec 20, 2002 | 06:49 AM
  #1  
Ferrite's Avatar
Ferrite
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Steering newbie

I've done several searches and done a LOT of reading...

Now I just need someone to confirm that I have this correct. Please.
I'm a steering newbie, but more than willing to try it on my own.
I need to replace the PS gear box and rag joint.
'79 F-100 2wd, 400/c6.

I have been trying to figure out how to disconnect the steering
shaft from the gear box, and the pitman arm as well. This is what I have:

On the gear box side of the coupling, there is a 12-point (torx?)
bolt that goes in horizontally. Is this a clamp bolt? I'm guessing
that a 12-point socket will loosen this. It then appears that I need
to cut off the 2 rivet connectors to remove the joint. The repair
kit I got from Napa appears to have 2 new bolts to replace the rivets with.

So cut the rivets, remove the other 2 bolt connections and remove the
rubber coupling. Loosen the 12-point bolt and remove the lower
section from the gear box shaft. Does it just slide off easily?
Or will I need to "encourage" it a little?

Now the pitman arm...what size is that nut? 1 1/4?
Any tricks to getting it loose without moving the steering?
I know I need a pitman arm remover to take it off the shaft,
do I need to remove it from the center/drag link, too?
Is it really as simple as remove the nut and popping it off the shaft?

Lastly, any tips or words of wisdom on making sure everything is
centered when I put it back together?

Thanks,

-Ferrite
 
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 02:08 PM
  #2  
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beartracks
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From: Albuquerque
Steering newbie

 
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Old Dec 21, 2002 | 06:13 PM
  #3  
Torque1st's Avatar
Torque1st
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
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Steering newbie

>I've done several searches and done a LOT of reading...
>
>Now I just need someone to confirm that I have this correct.
> Please.
>I'm a steering newbie, but more than willing to try it on my
>own.
>I need to replace the PS gear box and rag joint.
>'79 F-100 2wd, 400/c6.
>
>I have been trying to figure out how to disconnect the
>steering
>shaft from the gear box, and the pitman arm as well. This
>is what I have:
>
>On the gear box side of the coupling, there is a 12-point
>(torx?)
>bolt that goes in horizontally. Is this a clamp bolt?

Yes, and save the bolts, they are special bolts.

>I'm guessing
>that a 12-point socket will loosen this. It then appears
>that I need
>to cut off the 2 rivet connectors to remove the joint. The
>repair
>kit I got from Napa appears to have 2 new bolts to replace
>the rivets with.
>
>So cut the rivets, remove the other 2 bolt connections and
>remove the
>rubber coupling. Loosen the 12-point bolt and remove the
>lower
>section from the gear box shaft. Does it just slide off
>easily?
>Or will I need to "encourage" it a little?

Most of the time it slides off.


>Now the pitman arm...what size is that nut? 1 1/4?
>Any tricks to getting it loose without moving the steering?

Don't worry about moving the steering while you wrench on it. Use the "Candle Trick" listed in the Garage forum under loosening nuts and bolts.

>I know I need a pitman arm remover to take it off the shaft,
>do I need to remove it from the center/drag link, too?

No

>Is it really as simple as remove the nut and popping it off
>the shaft?

It ain't "simple" but yes.

>
>Lastly, any tips or words of wisdom on making sure
>everything is
>centered when I put it back together?

Measure from your tire or rim to the frame on both sides. Count the turns on the steering wheel from lock to lock on the new box and divide by two to find the center. You can find directions in a repair manual.


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Old Dec 22, 2002 | 09:45 PM
  #4  
Ferrite's Avatar
Ferrite
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Steering newbie

Thanks for the reply and the help.
I appreciate it.

I tackled this job on Saturday and it was fairly straightforward.
Learned a few things in the process, so that's always a good thing.

I did hit a snag, though. At the very end.
Either there is still air in the system or I installed a brand new
gear box that is dysfunctional. I bled the pump and received flow
from the return line so I know fluid is going through. But I still
have that godawful groaning and the steering is anything but smooth.
Definitely not driveable, actually worse than it was before I started.

I haven't had time to do anything with it since, so tomorrow the plan
is to bleed it again. Replace the pump if anything points to it, but
I don't think that's the issue. If it's not an air bubble issue, I
get the pleasure of taking it out again and starting over. Oh joy.


-Ferrite
 
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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 12:00 AM
  #5  
Torque1st's Avatar
Torque1st
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
Steering newbie

Put an inline filter in the return line. Use a transmission filter such as:

WIX TRANSMISSION / POWER STEERING FILTER #58964
FORD EQUIVALENT FILTER KIT #XC3Z-7B155-AA (with clamps and fittings)
FORD FILTER ALONE #XC3P-7B155-BA

The Ford filter looks EXACTLY like the Wix unit.

This will not cure your noise but it will make your steering parts live longer.

Do your wheels turn easily with the steering disconnected? No frozen Kingpins?

Is your belt tight?

Air bubbles usually produce a howl, not groaning.


Thanks for using FTE!




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Old Dec 23, 2002 | 08:36 AM
  #6  
Ferrite's Avatar
Ferrite
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Steering newbie

Hey thanks for the tip on the filter.
I hadn't even thought of that. Although I did bleed the pump lines
until it was only clear fluid coming through. I put about a quart and
a half through the pressure line before connecting it, and then went
through another half quart or so bleeding the return line. So I'm
positive that I've at least got all new fluid.

I'm assuming the pump is operating correctly because I was able to
do the bleeding. The pump is a "it either works or it doesn't" type
of thing, right? So if it wasn't working, I wouldn't have been able
to do the flush/bleeding process.

Kingpins were just replaced about 4-6 months ago. (another fun experience)
With the old gearbox, it was smooth side to side. I replaced it
because I had a fairly large leak at the pitman shaft seal area.
I had to replace the flex coupling, it was in tatters, so I figured
I'd do the gear box, too at the same time.

WHat I get now is what I call groaning. I relate it to the sound of
a PS unit when low or out of fluid. Only it happens every time I
even touch the wheel and steering goes from being easy to extremely
hard to turn, then suddenly easy again. All while being noisy.
That's why I'm leaning towards the bleeding again.

Plus it's about all I can do to fix it without pulling the gearbox.
And if I pull that out again, I will be wanting to put another
new unit in. Hopefully the alleged "lifetime warranty" that came
with the part will allow me to do that.

Anyways, thanks again. Just needed to vent a little. I was pleased
with how relatively easy the task was, only to be very disappointed
at the end result.

-Ferrite
 
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