I'll try to keep it short, but I want to give you all the info.

2 months ago: Replaced DHCP sensor, EGR valve, EGR solenoid & ran code reader KOEO, KOER and CM codes all came up 111 or 10. (Thanks for everyones help )

Yesterday: Wife driving home and engine overheated. I added coolant which solved the overheat problem. Engine started running rough so I pulled the codes and this is what came up

CM = 211 profile ignition pickup circuit fail
KOEO = 111
KOER = 172 HEGO senor fault/lean
332 insufficient EGR flow detected

I reset the computer without fixing anything, drove it around and pulled the codes again and this is what I got:

CM = 10 (all clear)
KOEO = 111
KOER = 332 insufficient EGR flow detected
411 cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check.

My questions are:
1. Could the engine overheat have caused the codes and could it have cause a malfunction/failure of any of the parts I replaced?

2. Could a clogged cat cause the EGR problems that the code reader is pulling?

By the way I can't find any coolant leak and I'm not burning it. Flushed the system 2 years ago. So where is it going?

 

I don't know the answer to your other questions but I just solved a 332 code. Check all the vacuum lines to EGR, EVP and EGR control solenoid. Maybe a line melted or got disconnected in your overheat. Good luck!

 

Yeah, I've already checked all the vac. lines and they are in good shape. No melting or leaks. A buddy of mine said the coolant issue might be due to a bad head gasket (god I hope not), and the EGR codes might be comming from excess pressure due to a clogged cat.

However, I would still like more opinions on this issue.

Thanks.

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes to allow the computer to reset? I usually do this anyhow, just a pain to reset the radio but wont hurt anything else,

 

Yes I have. Disconnected once as posted earlier and disconnected again this morning. Still pulling the 332 and 411 codes.

 

Which engine are we talking about here????

 

1994 2.3L Ford Ranger. I've got it going in to the mechanics this morning. Hopefully it's not serious.

 

The Mechanic narrowed it down to one of two possibilities. The DHCP or the EGR solenoid. I replaced the DHCP first but that was not it. So I looked at my old post ( clicky ) and found that after replacing all of EGR stuff and still having the problem, I put on a new TPS. Which is what I'm fixing to go buy. I'll keep you posted.

 

I would think you could spray carb cleaner at the EGR valve to see if it was leaking,, I have gone so far on my one BMW as to take a garden hose and soak the engine to find a vacuum leak,


good luck, the Mitchells manual should tell you how to test the TPS.

 

Well I have good news and bad news.

The good news is:

The cat is not clogged.
Found the coolant leak.
The Heads and gasket are intact.

The bad news:
radiator is cracked from age, gonna replace it.
purchased new TPS and EGR solenoid.

Planning on replacing what I can this weekend.

 

Replaced the radiator this weekend. It took about 2 hrs. since it was my first radiator exchange ever and I didn't want to mess anything up.

Replaced the TPS as well and re-ran the codereader. The 411 code is nolonger showing. So apparently the engine got hot enough during the over heat to affect some components.

Still waiting for the EGR solenoid to come in the mail to help with the 332 code.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

Well the new EGR solenoid came in yesterday. Replaced it last night, cleared the codes and drove it. The results......

It's all good

The engine bay must have gotten pretty darn hot in order to mess with those parts. I've got another Idea, but I'll save it for another thread.

Thanks to all who helped.

 

Good to hear you're "on the road again" !!!!

Good feedback too.

 

It's a good feeling when you solve one!

 

Drove it for 3 days and It's throwing a code for insufficient EGR flow.

When to the store, yada yada yada,

Put in a new IAC valve with results listed below

KOEO 111
CM 10
KOER 111

I also put in 2 zip ties on the end of the accelerator cable to take out some slack. Works good.