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OK Gene, What would your spring guy attribute this front end rake to then - all suspension components (except shocks and radius arm buishings) are original equipment and the tires are 235*70R15 on 15x7 rims. I am not trying to be confrontational but if my assumption is wrong, I am about to spend a couple of hundred bucks on the wrong solution. It is a 302 w/ 3 on the tree AT swapped engine in place of the original 300 straight 6 w/ 3 speed manual on the tree. Don't think there is much of a weight difference there. Am experiencing oversteer problems as well.
Well. I don't know what he would say, but that looks about the same rake as mine, 'cept I'm running 285-60-18's (which works out to a 31.46" tall tire and 11.22" wide).
All I know is I have to do something before I tear up my fenders/tires...
Well, I guess I am going to go with the new spring option - will report on the results when I get them installed. Heck, if nothing else - they can't hurt right?
I liked the tack Eric took, if you measure from the bottom of the frame rail straight down to the top of the I-Beam what do you get? (In other words, how far can the I-beam travel before it hits the frame rail?) All the trucks should have a "sweet spot" regardless of engine or tire combo that provides for the optimimum bump and droop travel, and allowance for camber adjust without a HUGE bend to the beam.
With cast beams I have 3.5" +/-1/8 (and have a good alignment, handling, etc.)
Maybe with a few more people checking on know good trucks, we can establish (verify) what is the normal range.
I think these springs DO sag, though I certainly don't have a large enough statistical sample to comment on how often.
The other day, I had my '77 F250 (2WD Custom w/ 351M & C6) on Diablo Dam, and I parked as close as I could to the upstream parapet wall, so the right side tires just touched the wall. Comparing visually to a rail set into the roadway, I first thought the front track must be an inch or so narrower than rear (my stupid '96 K2500 Suburban is a good 2" wider in front), then I noticed the left front tire seemed to have more positive camber. My eyeball said it was definitely tucked in, compared to the rear tire.
Now I'm confused. But a short time after I got the truck, I saw the front bump stops were about beaten out of existence, and one side seemed a bit lower. I ordered new red urethane bump stops from Springworks. I'm sure my springs have sagged somewhat, and maybe someday I'll install new ones. But for now, we just avoid the jumps.
This is the Real World. Coil springs sag. Leaf springs sag. Torsion bars sag. Hell,I sag.
Now THAT'S useful data. I presently have 235/85R-16E's on my 2WD 1977 F250 Custom. I'm planning to go to 265/75R-16E's to increase my load rating (and match what I'm running on our Suburban). My front springs are sagged just a bit, I believe. I intend to add Hellwig Load Pro LP25 helpers to the rear, so I'll be stable with a cord of wood. Sounds like I'd better watch my front ride height closely with the 265's, but it should work OK.
The type that might work are just a rubber pad that fits under the coil spring on one end. The last ones I saw were in a parts store. Sorry I don't remember which one.
They were similar to the JC Whitney 84UE0661Y (# from a 2003 catalog) but not as tall. They were about 3/4" thick. You don't need much lift and the rubber will help the ride quality.
Will let you know - just ordered from Whitney yesterday - figured was a cheap way to test if that was my problem. If it does solve my oversteer and camber issues, I will probably go ahead and just buy new replacement springs but figured for $20, it might prove it one way or the other.