Ok this is really driving me nuts, I only have 24,000km less than 15,000miles on my what was brand new truck three months ago. My driving consits of 95% highway and maybe 5% city driving. So I have very little stop and go, plus I drive 80% at night since my company I own is a cleaning company.

I have had my Ford dealer replace the rotors at 12,000km and now since 22,000 km my truck has been vibrating like a bat out of hell anytime I brake from 60mph to 25mph I am honestly really sick and tired of this I think it is unreal that I have had to replace two sets of rotors on what is still a very new truck.

What I wanted to know is are the E350 or E450 rotors able to fit on this truck. I ask because I have a E450 7.3L PSD, and have never had a problem same as my E350 PSD, I also want to know if this is still covered by the ford warranty? I really would like to solve this problem because I hate taking clients out in a vehicle that cant stop like it should without giving everyone a roller coaster ride.

PS I did a search and came up with over 15 pages and most of them were talking about aerostars, and super duties, and expeditions, only a few were talking about the x and those that did only said yeah changed my rotors again. So yeah, i get that I know I need to do that, but what is the cure? Brembo CAD plated x-drilled or slotted etc???

 

Make sure your wheels are PROPERLY torqued to specifications.

Tighten to about 100 lb. ft. and then increase each bolt (in the correct pattern) to 150lb. ft. (I think that's the new spec...)

Amazing what happens when you tighten then properly.

Oh...keep people weilding impact wrenches away from your wheels!

 

I torqued mine like every one says to and they still warped and I even bought the best rotor I could buy not the cheaper after market ones. They had a two year warrinty so I got new ones for free.

I think my cause was my back brakes were shot. The pads had frozen in place so the caliper was not floating like it should so I believe the front brakes were being over worked. All new rotors and pads the ex stops better than ever.

 

I thought the specs for the wheels was 65 ft lb. When did they go to 150?

 

I read something recently, written by an engineer that said the way rotors are built and the matieral that they're made out of; that it is really not possible to warp a rotor. That if any matieral gets caught between the rotor and spindel, such as rust, paint chips, metal burrs. That if the rotor does not mount flat it wobbles, causing a hide-side that has material transfer from the pads to the rotor when it's hot. So a new rotor may be better at first, but eventually the matieral will transfer again and the same warp defect is back... Make sure that everything is really clean under the rotor. And if you own a dial indicator you can really make sure. But all it take is a few thousandths. Check it -- good luck.

 

A brake rotor on a Superduty or Excursion does not make a difference if you impact it or not. If you torque them to 150 or 200 it does not make a diffence as long as the lug nuts are in the range of spec torque. You will never "warp a rotor" from impacting the wheel nuts. Torque values are there for bolt stretch, nothing to do with brake rotors. You would have to bend the hub that the wheels studs are pressed into and bend the brake rotor as well to cause warpage. It will never happen, not in a million years. Warpage may occur on a rotor that has the studs incorperated due to them pulling out and cracking the rotor materiel because of improper torque...again very unlikely. This is a old wives tale that needs to be put to rest.

 

I agree with this. This time around I just tightened the lug nuts. No torque wrench.

As for a rotor not being able to be warped. Hit a piece os sheet metal with some heat and watch it bend/warp. It a smaller way this happens to a rotor. To much heat affects the rotor in the same way.

 

sheet metal or even 1 inch or even thicker plate will bend or warp if heat is applied to one side or area.I have seen an I beam in the side of a building pull the whole side of the building out of true.But that is a flat forged ,rolled material,with heat applied to aconfined area as opposed to a casting in which the molecules align differently,and the heat is being applied to a sandwiched structure with webbing in the center...

 

i am so not awake yet.and the heat on a rotor is being applied from both sides in a more or less overall effect,there is expansion but not a confined type that will cause the grabbing,pulse effect we are all familiar with.Look how hot race car rotors get,and for the most part they stay pretty straight...

 

As a long time FORD DE-VOTE-EE I can honestly say FORD'S for some reason or another to suffer from the disc-brake rotor warping problem !! I've got it now on my 2000 expedition !!! I'm sure it's some kind of design flaw !!!! Take the truck back and get a new set of rotor's, keep in mind they too need a "break-in" period.

 

Hello again,

OK, I have an 02' Ex PSD with all original brakes and abt 76K miles on it and 75% of brakes left. While it's been a nightmare in most other respect, the brakes are actually an easy thing to address (in my case).

First of all the dealers and most shops will hang new rotors and pads till the cows come home - it's money.

Fact is the lower caliper bolts on the F250s and Excurions collect road crap and tend to sieze up against the caliper. This causes a pronounced steerring wheel shake/shudder, particiularly under low speed low braking conditions.

Those bolt shafts that hold the caliper need to be cleaned and lubricated every so often. While it acts like rotor warping you probably don't get the pronounced pull to one side or the other, just a back and forth. This is from the caliper not being allowed to float free as designed.

Big-O (not a plug, just who I use and I think they are very honest) will tell you this, rotate your tires, do the caliper bolt cleaning and lube the bolt shafts from between free and 60 bucks. Have the rotar resurfaced while your at it and your probably out 120 bucks total - Ford does not do this as maintanence (at least not on mine) so find someone you trust.

PS: If you do this your should notice the problem goes away (unless you indeed warped your rotors (i doubt it).

Cheers

 

I have the same problem with warpage. I have tried powerslots on a different vehicle with warpage and it didn't reoccure so that may be a good choice. Right now I just live with it until it becomes unbareably worse.

 

I agree, I had '77 Granada brakes on my '68 Mustang, and before I had put 10k miles on them, they were ever so slightly warped.

Edit: My first car, an '00 Focus had disc brake problems too, but I can't recall what it was. In any case, Ford never solved it and they always squeaked.

 

I don't understand the problem, but let me say what seems to have fixed the "warpage" on my Excursion. Mine was so bad at times that it made the entire front of truck shudder. I was seriously thinking of changing rotors for new, but thought I would try resurfacing at least once.

A local tire shop "turned the front rotors" right on the truck. Both front rotors for $50. This was over 8,000 miles ago.

Thus far, none of the vibration or shudder has recurred. Pretty cheap and I now have almost forgotten how bad it was before.

Note that I also now torque my wheels myself after returning from tire shop. May be superstition, but this may also contribute to solution.

 

well, at 77000 miles, i replacecd my front rotors, and for the second time pads and calipers. I bought calipers with a lifetime warranty. upon inspection of the rear brakes, yep, rotors, pads and calipers were in order. Both rear calipers were frozen as well as the slides. oye what a job to clean up those slides. the brake shutter or warping of the rotors COULD be from a partially sticking caliper....i could be the farm it is. I have done enough brake work on my 00 x to know...how does it brake? does it pull?