CEL LIght, ABS LIght on
I may add , I replaced speed sensor mounted on top of rear axle. Still ABS light on
Any ideas will be highly appreciated
1095 - you sure? My list says this is a bank 1 slow switching O2 sensor for a BMW.
1101 - MAF sensor out of test range. This means the PCM didn't get the right voltage back that it would expect given the position of the throttle. It might have happened once which can happen if something funky happens. it could ba a continual problem so I'd look into MAF sensor of the TPS.
1202 - Cylinder 2 injector circuit open or grounded
1206 - Clyinder 6 injector circuit open or grounded
Not sure where to start here. Part of OBD-II problem is there are so many freaking codes it can drive you nuts. How does it even know if the circuit is open or grounded? What's the feedback llop? I guess I'd start bu checking the 2 injector wires for open/ground. One on each will be ground so you should get next to no ohs resistance to a good ground.
1214 - Pedal position sensor B circuit intermitent - Sorry this is new to me. Only thing I can think of is the 3 position clutch switch on manual transition models but you have an Automatic.
Your ABS is a different system. It runs pretty much indepent from the PCM or main computer. It is it's own computer actually. So if it senses something bad the ABS dash ligh goes on, drives people crazy, an forces them to bring it in to get work on - since it is a major safety issue. I don't think you get any OBD-II codes for ABS problems. Typically the sensors go bad. You also have one each at the front rotors. Sensor is mounted to car with a trigger on each rotor. There might be some internal diagnostics for the pump/motor/solenoid assembly too, i.e. drawing too much current, not sure.
Anyone else lend a hand?
MAF works with the throttle position sensor to keep a nice equilibrium.
What I would do, now that you know what codes came up before, is to clear the codes - with code reader or byt disconnecting the battery fo 5-10 min's - and then run the car again to see what codes are truely still there.
If the MAF comes up again, I would try cleaning it, then replace. Might be the TPS too.
Check here for cleaning tips http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/
Check here for general EFI functionality http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1
MAF works with the throttle position sensor to keep a nice equilibrium.
What I would do, now that you know what codes came up before, is to clear the codes - with code reader or byt disconnecting the battery fo 5-10 min's - and then run the car again to see what codes are truely still there.
If the MAF comes up again, I would try cleaning it, then replace. Might be the TPS too.
Check here for cleaning tips http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/
Check here for general EFI functionality http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1


