Brake Pad Question
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Joined: Oct 2002
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Brake Pad Question
I need to change the pads on my front brakes on a 1999 F-250 4x2. My manual states that I must remove the calipers to change the pads. The rotors are in excellent condition so I do not need to turn them, I only need to change the pads. Can I change the pads without taking the calipers off ?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
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From: So Cal
I haven't tried a 99, but in general the calipers on most vehicles are held on with two bolts or two slides/pins and are very easy to remove, usually without needing to remove the rotor. 90% of the vehicles I have tinkered with took maybe all of 5 minutes to remove the calipers and pads with me working slow. On my 94 F250, they are held on with slider/pins and once those are removed the caliper lifts up and off from the rotor.
I don't think the pads on most vehicles can be removed from the caliper without removing the caliper first for several reasons. 1) the pads are usually almost directly in contact with the rotor so there is usually not enough room to slide them out. 2) Most pads have some mechanicsm that "locks" them to the caliper and or piston so they don't wiggle around too much, or worse fall out, so they don't come out without disengaging the "locks". 3) the new pads will by definition be much thicker than the old pads, so you will need to push the piston back into the caliper so that there is room for the new pad to fit.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
I don't think the pads on most vehicles can be removed from the caliper without removing the caliper first for several reasons. 1) the pads are usually almost directly in contact with the rotor so there is usually not enough room to slide them out. 2) Most pads have some mechanicsm that "locks" them to the caliper and or piston so they don't wiggle around too much, or worse fall out, so they don't come out without disengaging the "locks". 3) the new pads will by definition be much thicker than the old pads, so you will need to push the piston back into the caliper so that there is room for the new pad to fit.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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You need to remove the caliper to remove the pads, and since you're going that far, you ought to turn the rotors whether they look like they need turning or not. I'm willing to bet they're a bit warped no matter how they look.
Why put new pads on worn rotors?
Why put new pads on worn rotors?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 4
From: Baltimore
Replacement pads may not ride on the rotor where the old pads did. Having the rotors turned would ensure a clean surface for the new pads. If the rotors are in good shape the amount of material removed would be minimal. If you decide to have the rotors turned, the caliper brackets have to be removed, and locktite is recommended for the bolt threads. You should also clean the mating surfaces (not part of the machining process) where the rotor and hub meets.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 61
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From: Jersey Shore Area
Cut the rotors
The gentleman is correct about cutting the rotors. Firstly, the rotors get glazed from heat. The glazed rotors will quickly glaze the new pads, and you will get less stopping power. The rotors can warp from heat, and this especially holds true each time you cut the rotor and it gets thinner. You can usually get 1 or 2 cuts on a rotor before replacing it. Lastly, you won't get 100% brake contact without cutting the rotors.
I did one better, bought new rotors, installed them (Prayed they were not warped from storage), and now I rotate rotors during brake jobs. I keep a spare set, and cut it when I'm ready to use it (This way it doesn't get warped during storage, and if it does, the shop will spot it during the machining, not during my installation). The brakes are soooo much nicer with new rotors and pads. Don't forget to inspect/adjust the rears while you are at it, to get max stopping power. Change the pins every 3rd brake job regardless of their condition. It also makes a difference. Clean the caliper rails with a wirebrush, and every so lightly coat the rails with never sieze. Too much will heat up and get into the brakes. The calipers float every so nicely. And don't be chinsy and overlook packing the bearings. If you've got the hub off, do it all! If you are careful, you can reuse the inner seal at least once. Have fun.
I did one better, bought new rotors, installed them (Prayed they were not warped from storage), and now I rotate rotors during brake jobs. I keep a spare set, and cut it when I'm ready to use it (This way it doesn't get warped during storage, and if it does, the shop will spot it during the machining, not during my installation). The brakes are soooo much nicer with new rotors and pads. Don't forget to inspect/adjust the rears while you are at it, to get max stopping power. Change the pins every 3rd brake job regardless of their condition. It also makes a difference. Clean the caliper rails with a wirebrush, and every so lightly coat the rails with never sieze. Too much will heat up and get into the brakes. The calipers float every so nicely. And don't be chinsy and overlook packing the bearings. If you've got the hub off, do it all! If you are careful, you can reuse the inner seal at least once. Have fun.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
Likes: 7
From: USA
Rotors should always be turned on a truck of this size.
1)to take the glaze off the surface for new pads to set
2)to remove any high /low areas (even if you don't feel them,they are there)
3)to inspect caliper glide pins and lube
4 biggest factor is Safety and do the job right.
Rich
oops jersey and I posting at same time
1)to take the glaze off the surface for new pads to set
2)to remove any high /low areas (even if you don't feel them,they are there)
3)to inspect caliper glide pins and lube
4 biggest factor is Safety and do the job right.
Rich
oops jersey and I posting at same time
