Whats the easiest way to pull the 360 out of my 76 highboy? Is it easier to pull it with the np435 tranny, pull the tranny first then the motor? I am just looking for some pointers. This is my first engine pull in a 4x4. Thanks for all the help!!!

 

Are you wanting to pull the tranny out? If not pull the engine by itself.


79 250 Ranger Lariat 4wd 400 C6 3.55's 33x12.50 16.5's
78 Bronco Custom 4wd 400 C-6 3.50's 31 10.5 15's
66 Mustang Coupe Sports sprint 200 c-4 cruise o matic 3.00's
99 Grand Prix GT 230 ft/lbs torque out of a non turbo'd 6 cyl hehe

 

If this is your first engine pull out of a 4x4 then i would suggest you pull the transmission first. Then the engine. You will gain more knowledge knowing how the transmission is removed before the engine is pulled and replaced after the engine is installed. Rok crusher

 

well, I have pulled trannys before but I dont need to pull mine. I was just wondering if it was easier to take the tranny with it... Thinking that lining up the tranny to the motor is easier than lining up the engine to the tranny.

 

Why the hell would you want to pull tranny before the engine? Especially out of a highboy! Unless you have access to a tall trans jack, it is killer. I've already pulled engines just to change a clutch in situations like this because it was easier. Took longer, but at least a big iron transmission wasn't trying to crush me from above.
MIke
1966 Bronco
2000 F150 Supercab

 

Having just had my 410 in-and-out 4 times over the past few months, I would suggest that for a manual tranny it's easiest to install the engine with the bell housing still attached to the tranny in the truck. That's because the clutch fork and throw-out bearing are already in place that way, so all you have to work on is lining up the tranny input shaft with the clutch disc. Otherwise, it can be a real pain to get the throw-out bearing and fork to stay where they belong while you're trying to get everything else to align.
Another thing is that you need to be able to rotate the tranny output shaft with the tranny in 4th gear. This enables the tranny input shaft splines to rotate enough to fit into the clutch disc. Either jack one rear wheel off the ground far enough to turn, or disconnect the driveshaft to accomplish this.
After using an adjustable motor cradle that tilts the motor independently of the hoist height, I'd never try to do it without one again.
And the last piece of advice is to be really patient, and keep looking top and bottom for areas of contact if things don't seem to be going right. Never, never try to force the components together by tightening the bolts, or you stand a really good chance of warping or breaking something. Just keep wiggling and coaxing the bell housing onto the engine's aligning dowels until you can tighten the bolts very easily, best by hand only, and only then use a wrench for final torquing.
Have fun!! Steve

 

Thanks for all the input guys. This information will come in handy this weekend when i do the swap...also, just a side note completely off the engine pulling subject. If your looking for a 390, make sure you measure the stroke before you buy. I drove from minnesota to Iowa for a 390 and it turned out to be a 360 with a 390 top end. I asked the guy to measure that stroke but he said he knew it was a 390, he said the dowel in the spark plug hole wasnt accurate enough to measure from. I disagree. However I am just glad to have an engine that hopefully runs good. Again, Thanks for all you input.

Jeremy

 

I'd never buy a 390 without measuring the stroke. How else would you know if it's a 390 and NOT just a 390 top end like what happened to you? Short of pulling the oil pan that is. I guess it's one of life's lesson's. ~ 3BZ

 

you can say that again...